The Doctor is In

No matter when you got your pet, how long you have had it, or how old or young your pet is, your pet is going to need veterinary care.  Veterinary care is not limited to just when your pet is ill.  In fact, the best veterinary care should include at least annual visits as part of a wellness program; prevention is always best and usually less expensive.

What can a veterinarian do for you and your pets?  This list is long.  Besides providing emergency care and illness care, they can provide preventative medical care throughout your pet's life, nutritional guidance, answers to basic care the training questions, access to information on groundbreaking medical care, lost and found resources, bathing/grooming, boarding services, emotional support in time of pet crisis, long-term care of ongoing medical conditions for your pet, etc.  In this office, we provide pick up and drop off services for the elderly and handicapped, along with a great many other personal services to help make caring for your pet less stressful.

If you don't already have a veterinarian you are happy with, how do you go about locating and establishing a relationship with a veterinarian?  When selecting a veterinarian, you are doing more than just looking for a doctor for your pet, you want a doctor that has good people skills in addition to good animal experience.  The worst time to look for a vet is when you really need one, so plan ahead so that you can shop wisely.

Take some time to think about what qualities you are looking for in a vet and what services matter to you most.  Are they cat people?  dog people?  horse people? etc.  Do they provide after hours care? Are they and their staff friendly?  Are they up to date on the newest medical information?  Younger? Older? Just out of school or been in practice a long time? Are their facilities close, convenient, ample parking, convenient office hours?  There are all questions you may ask yourself.

As friends and neighbors who they use and if they are happy with their vet and why?  As them what specifically they like or don't like about their vet.  If you are new to the area, check the Yellow Pages, the internet or you can also check with check with the American Veterinary Medical Association's site http://www.myveterinarian.com/avma/vclPublic/# to find a veterinarian in your area.  Check out the veterinarian/clinic website to get an idea about what appears to be important to them.

Once you have a name(s), visit their clinic to view the facilities and meet the vet.  I suggest you call ahead, let them know you are shopping for a vet and would like to tour their hospital.  I also suggest asking them if you can bring your pet with you.  It will give you an opportunity to see how the staff interact with your pet.  Do they ask you questions about your pet, are they interested about what makes your pet unique? When you get there, begin your assessment from the moment you walk in the door.  How does the clinic smell?  Does it look clean? Was the receptionist friendly and greeted you with a smile?  As you take your tour, pay attention to how the staff interact with one another.  If they respect each other, they will likely respect you and your pets.  Keep your eyes and ears open.

When you meet the vet, keep in mind they may be busy with patients and won't have time for a long chat. However, even with a few minutes you should get an idea of how well they communicate and if you feel comfortable.

Your relationship with your veterinarian is very important; together,  you and they will need to work together as a team in keeping your pet healthy.  If after the first few times you visit the vet with your pet you don't feel comfortable, change vets.  Don't stick with a vet you are not happy with.  However, in defense of the veterinarian, before you switch, take careful thought about whether or not your expectations  have been too unrealistic.  For example, some clients call several times a day and expect to be put through immediately, not willing to talk to the receptionist or technician when the doctor has been in surgery or with other patients.  Sometimes simple misunderstandings cause conflicts, which you and your vet can resolve by talking things out and looking for solutions.  I have told several clients over the years that if there is something wrong and you don't tell me, then I cannot fix it.  Communication is the key to any good relationship (even with your spouse!).  If you feel you have been reasonable about your expectations and you have either talked with the vet or given the staff an opportunity to correct things, then just move on.

My pets are part of my family, and although they are not my children, I feel they deserve the best care that I can provide them, just like I have done for my children.  I extend that courtesy to my clients and patients.  You and yours not only deserve it, you should expect it.

New Year Resolution: 2012 Pet Wellness Year

Now is the time year when many of us start making New Year's resolutions.  I don't make any personal resolutions; hate to set myself up for failure.  I am hoping that I can encourage you to make at least one that will benefit your pet's.  I am asking you to declare 2012 Pet Wellness Year.  We understand that economics have put many of you in a financial bind; it effects the Animal Care Center too.  We have had to tighten our belt and monitor our expenses just as you have.  However, I know that preventing disease is less expensive than treating one.  Example, a series of vaccination for that new Christmas puppy or kitten will cost you about $150.00; treating your puppy for Parvo will cost you about $350.00.  Seems a no brainer to me.  Annual heart worm prevention for a dog over 50# is about $80.00, to treat the same dog for heart worm disease is about $400.00.  Spaying your 50# dog costs approximately $65.00 (what a bargin!) compared to the cost for a C-section if needed, feeding puppies, de-worming puppies and starting them on vaccinations!  In return for your savings, you get a pet that will live longer through better health and be happier.

In addition to applying this resolution to pet maintenance wellness, your wellness declaration should include twice a year examinations for your senior pets.  Today I had a patient on my surgery table that served as a prime example of why this is important.  Warning!! The picture attached is rather graphic!  This patient is a senior citizen that developed a mass on the back of it's leg that had been getting larger over the last 4 months, that went ignored.  The mass became so large that it ruptured the skin and was ulcerated and bleeding.

Approximately the size of a small grapefruit, this tumor would have been much easier and certainly less expensive had it been removed when it was smaller.  This patient has a long and thick hair coat that can make the discovery of the mass early on difficult.  This is actually a lymph node, something that your veterinarian examines during a physical examination.  Early detection of many malignant tumors can be curative and/or at the very least the invasiveness of the cancer can be slowed down and extend the life of the patient.

For this reason, I encourage all pet owners to be vigilant by making an annual examination appointment for your pet, twice a year for senior pets. This year, give your veterinarian the chance to notice any developing illnesses and the opportunity to take care of them right away. If it has been a year or more since your pet has seen a vet, call them today!!  

We Wish You A Merry Christmas

STAR OF HOPE

- by Del "Abe" Jones

They came to pray, on Christmas Day

When, the Christ Child was born -

They came to see, Virgin Mary

Bear hope for the forlorn.

Some from afar, followed that star

Though why, they were not sure -

At great expense, brought frankincense -

And gifts of spice and myrrh.

They gathered 'round, as if spellbound -

Their eyes lit by the glow -

For, from the bed, o'er Jesus' head

There was a bright halo.

That Child did things, to poor and kings

With the gaze of His eye -

He gave some hope, helped others cope

And some, He made them cry.

Down on their knees, they said, "Lord, please

Stop pain and suffering.

Make all on Earth, of the same worth

With the joy, that you can bring."

"Please teach of love, from God above

Shared, by each fellow man.

Show us the way, what we must say

To fit, the Heavenly plan."

He tried for years, to end mans' fears -

Brought miracles each day -

He taught His word, (not always heard)

And for our souls, He'd pray.

But, it seems greed, had sown its' seed

For some, 'twas much too late.

And though He cared and, always shared

The Cross had sealed His fate.

Now, all mankind, for being blind

Must someday, pass the test.

But, if lived right, both day and night

Mans' future could be blessed.

So Christmas Day, take time to pray

To bow your head and see

That God above, will send His love

For all eternity.

At home and far away, we celebrate the gift of our Lord Jesus and pray for Peace on Earth and Good Will To ALL!

Fourth Day of Christmas Hazards

One the 4th day of Christmas my true love gave to me, a car load of Christmas groceries.

Some people foods are fine for pets. However, some people foods can seriously endanger pets’ health. Play it safe this season by keeping pets on their regular diets over the holidays and don’t let family and friends sneak them table scraps.

While turkey and ham make up the majority of traditional holiday meals, turkey and ham bones can become lodged in the pet’s intestines if swallowed in large pieces. Cats and dogs could become seriously ill or even choke to death.  Fatty foods, such as meat scraps and drippings, may cause pancreatitis (inflammation of the pancreas) when ingested, especially by dogs. Certain breeds, miniature Schnauzers in particular, are more likely to develop pancreatitis than other breeds.
  
Baked holiday goodies of cakes, cookies and breads should definitely be off your pet's dietary list.  First, yeast bread dough can result in a bowel obstruction or a bloated or distended stomach in pets. Second, Xylitol, a common sugar-substitute used in baked goods, candies, and sugar-free chewing gum can be fatal to dogs. (Note: While Xylitol is poisonous to dogs in quantities found in human candies and chewing gum, it is used in some human and pet dental products to help prevent tooth decay. The amount of xylitol typically found in most pet oral-care products is very small and, when used properly, is not expected to cause poisoning unless the dog ingests a very large amount.)


Xylitol may cause a life-threatening drop in blood sugar and can cause liver damage to dogs. Cats and people do not experience this problem. The typical dose needed to cause poisoning is at least 0.05 grams per pound of body weight.  Within 10 to 15 minutes of ingestion, dogs may develop hypoglycemia (low blood sugar), lose coordination, and start vomiting. Collapse and seizures may quickly follow. In rare cases, these signs won’t appear until hours after ingestion.  If you catch the dog in the act, you should induce vomiting.  As always, call your veterinarian.

Third Day of Christmas Hazards

On the 3rd day of Christmas my true love gave to me, a box of Christmas Decorations and wrappings.


While holiday decorations can make a home feel more festive, they can be tantalizing traps for pets. Keep decorations and ornaments higher up on trees so they’re not consumed by pets. The same goes for christmas wrappings, especially stringed ribbons.  Also, exposed cords from electric lights can cause electrocution or oral burns if chewed. 




Though they’re not poisonous, if a pet decides, the colorful garland or tree trim might make a tasty treat, when ingested these strings can result in a life-threatening linear foreign body, intestinal perforation, and septic peritonitis (infection in the abdominal cavity).  A linear foreign body occurs when pets swallow something stringy, like ribbon, tinsel, yarn, or floss. The stringy-item wraps around the base of the tongue or anchors in the stomach and is unable to pass through the intestines. As the intestines contract and move, this string slowly saws through the intestinal tissue, resulting in severe damage and possible rupture of the pet’s intestinal tract.  The treatment for linear foreign bodies involves complex and expensive abdominal surgery, hospitalization, pain management, IV fluids, prescription diets, antibiotics, and frequent monitoring of laboratory values. Even after surgical removal, some pets may not survive. 


If a pet does ingest a long piece of tinsel, ribbon, thread or string, advise the owner to immediately bring the animal into the clinic for an examination. Most importantly, if pet owners report they can see the string hanging from the pet’s mouth or anus, tell them not to pull on it as doing so may result in further tissue damage. Only trained veterinary professionals should remove such strings.  The outcome can be good if the pet is treated before severe signs and intestinal damage result. If the intestine is perforated the prognosis becomes much worse.

Two of the Twelve Days of Christmas Hazards

On the 2nd day of Christmas my true love gave to me, one poinsettia, one Christmas lily and a Mistletoe for the doorway.


Though poinsettias are traditionally thought of as quite toxic to pets, the relative toxicity of poinsettia plants has been quite exaggerated.  The most problematic component of the plant are the irritants found in its milky white sap.  As the plant is chewed and the sap ingested, mild and self-limiting oral irritation, salivation, vomiting, and diarrhea may result. Contact of sap with the skin may also result in mild dermal irritation, redness, and itchiness. The majority of cases can be managed at home. Induction of vomiting should be considered in cases of massive ingestions. Occasionally, supportive care such as anti-emetics, gastroprotectants, and rehydration may be necessary. In cases of skin contact, bathe the pet with soap and water to remove the sap.

American mistletoe, the iconic holiday plant under which couples like to stop, also has an exaggerated degree of toxicity. Rumors of its toxic nature are largely due to confusion with its cousin, European mistletoe.  Ingestion of American mistletoe leaves or berries may cause lethargy, vomiting, and, less frequently, diarrhea. In rare cases hypotension (low blood pressure) may occur. Most cases can be managed at home. In some cases, general supportive care such as anti-emetics, gastroprotectants, and rehydration may be necessary. Should clinical signs such as hypotension occur, monitoring of blood pressure and heart rate are warranted.

All flowers of the Lilium species, including Stargazer, Easter, Tiger, and other Asiatic lilies, are extremely poisonous to cats. (Lilies are not toxic to dogs, and only self-limiting vomiting is expected if a dog ingests them.)  The ingestion of just one or two leaves or petals is enough to cause sudden kidney failure. Even the pollen from these flowers is toxic to cats.  Signs of kidney failure due to lily ingestion include vomiting, reduced appetite, increased or decreased urination, and lethargy. Kidney failure will begin within a few days of a cat eating lilies and, if not treated, the cat often dies.  Any cat ingesting even small pieces of a lily needs an immediate medical evaluation accompanied by intensive intravenous fluid therapy, blood work, and hospitalization.

One of The Twelve Days of Christmas Holiday Pet Hazards

My version of the 12 days of Christmas will be to share with you some important potential holiday hazards for your pets. Avoiding these hazards are not only in the best interest for your pet, it will also prevent you from adding to your holiday expenses in veterinary bills (while helping me pay the utility bills!)

One the First Day of Christmas my true love gave to me, one fruitcake!

While fruitcake may be a desirable food for people, it can actually be deadly to pets.
Grapes, raisins, and currants are common ingredients in fruitcakes and can result in kidney failure in dogs (and potentially cats and ferrets) if ingested. Additionally, fruitcake that has been soaked in rum or other alcohol may lead to ethanol intoxication.

The ingestion of grapes, raisins, and currants may lead to acute vomiting followed by increased thirst, increased urination, lethargy, and a decreased appetite as kidney failure progresses. Alcohol ingestion may lead to a rapid and dangerous drop in blood sugar, blood pressure, and body temperature. Pets ingesting alcohol can experience seizures and respiratory failure.

For animals that ingest alcohol, the induction of vomiting may be contraindicated if the animal has neurological depression or has had spontaneous vomiting.  Following the ingestion of grapes, raisins, and currants, the immediate induction of vomiting is often advised.


If you suspect your pet has eaten this sweet bread, you should contact your veterinarian.  Recovery from this dietary indiscretion is excellent if animals are treated before signs begin. Once pets have begun to develop kidney failure from grapes, raisins, or currents or have developed significant neurological depression and low blood sugar from alcohol, the prognosis becomes much worse.

What Your Cat Tells With Its Tale

Since animals are not as vocal as we humans, their other senses are very sensitive.  Body language is everything in the animal kingdom and usually comes down to two messages; distance increasing or distance decreasing, after all that is what keeps it alive and decreases risk of harm.

Tails, ears, eyes, whiskers are used in their non-vocal communications, along with body positions.  For example, if your cat walks up to you with a confident gait, his tail high over its back, it is looking for interaction.

A cat's tail is not just a tool for balancing, it is a flag!  or not.  Since the cat's tail is easily visible when upright, he can use it to tell others if he is open to interaction....or not.  Like a flag it can be seen from far away and its position can be read by other cats.  When straight up with a slight curl to the end usually means 'I am friendly'.  When held parallel to the body, horizontally, half-lowered and when walking it may mean he is relaxed.  When lowered to the ground, it can mean aggression.  A lashing, whipping motion usually means agitation,  I see this all to frequently in the clinic.

The tail by itself is not the tell all of the cat's mood.  But when you add the tale language with the rest of his body language, it speaks volumes.  Again, I invite you to think cat, watch your cat during it's interaction with you and others, watch his tail in relation to other body postures and see if you can interpret what you can is saying with his body.

Cattitude Behavioral Langauage

Cat's, much like dogs, are very scent oriented and something as humans we have a hard time grasping since we are a verbal and visual species.  A good example of this is try hiding a medication in your cat's canned food.  I can guess the cat did not eat or ate around the medication.  Another good example is urine marking territory.

Scenting is a complex and serious communication behavior in the animal world in general.  The smell of other cats says a lot to your feline about the other cat.  Urine marking territory is not the only reason why a cat may 'spray' urine, urine spraying can also be a form of cover aggression.  When a cat is unsure of how much of an opponent he may have to face in his territory, he might spray as a way of leaving a calling card.  The urine smell lets the other cat(s) know about him.  This is especially troublesome to the multi-cat household.  Can you imagine how frustrating and busy each cat may be urinating in the same litter box with 2 or more other cats, reclaiming his territory, etc.  No wonder he is peeing around the litter box, he may be trying to tell the last cat there that he is not happy with it.  From the human side, it also how a cat may combine his scent with yours as a way of comforting himself.  This can be a big problem for us.

If you have a cat(s) urinating outside of the letterbox(es), it could be a urinary health issue but it could also be a behavioral issue.  Have your veterinarian rule out urinary problems, and work with your veterinarian or animal behavioral specialist to work on changing your environment to be more cat friendly for all cats concerned.  Helpful tip:  you should have one litterbox for each cat in the home plus 1.  If you have one cat you need two litterboxes, two cats; 3 boxes, etc.  Also where the boxes are located is important, placed in high traffic areas by other cats or people is not a good thing.  Again, discuss litterbox problems with a veterinarian and/or behavioralist.

One last scenting things cats do:  rubs on you or an object.  Rubbing their cheek along an object, they are marking territory.  Facial rubbing releases pheromones on objects and these are 'friendly' smells.  He is marking it in a calm way to reaffirm that he's in familiar surroundings.  Rubbing against you, along with a sort of head bunt, is an affectionate behavior that is displayed only toward another companion animal or human.  It is a very respectful way that a cat shows affection.

Moral of the story--be an observer, watch your cat do the things he does, think like a cat (not human), look at the world from a cat's point of view and see if you can determine why he does what he does.

Time for me to head home.  Think I am going to rub my face and head against my husband when I get there to let him know that I really think he is the cat's meow!

Cats are not dogs with an CATTITUDE

Some might think I like dogs more than cats because I spend more time sharing information about dogs than I do cats, especially regarding feline behavior vs canine behavior.  I have two inside cats, Otis and Claws, each with their own cattitudes.  I have shared many Otis and Claws stories with my clients during their cat visits in the clinic.  The main reason that I haven't discussed any cat behavior issues is because frankly I haven't taken the opportunity to teach myself a lot about feline behavioral issues beyond litter box issues.  Behavioral topics among cats and dogs was not something they taught in vet school, at least not when I was attending and I am pretty sure I didn't sleep through that class (because behavioral learning is a favorite topic of mine, two and four legged).  So I have been trying to enlighten myself about cat behavior.  Like dog behavior you have to start by thinking the way cats think; contrary to popular belief and rumors cats are not human (having human thoughts) or dogs (not pack animals or think terms of dog-hood).

So I start watching my cats and their normal behaviors at home...what do they do, when they think you are not looking, and question why do they do that?  For example, why does my cat face away from me, butt in my face, when she lays with me on the couch or sleeps with me in bed?  Just the view I like to see on my cat...her butt!  I have learned that this is a very normal behavior and a positive one.  Sitting or laying with their backside to you shows ultimate trust, a source of security.   Cats are also always on the look out for potential threats, (cats are hunters) so if he watches one direction (making sure nothing evil is approaching-his primary sensory receptors facing forward), they are trusting that you are watching his back from the other direction!  One more thing, in the cat world, a little nose to nose sniffing followed by a little butt sniffing is proper etiquette for introductions (much like the dog world), scent is very important in communication and social structure.

I will try to keep you updated on my learning process and hopefully help you learn more about your cat and it's cattitudes!

Apples and Oranges

Often veterinarians borrow medical information and techniques from our human counterparts in order to explore, learn and provide better care for your critters.  While how your Fido or Fluffy may respond/react to some drugs are certainly different from humans, basic anatomy and how the body works is very similar, which is why we use many human based drugs and procedures in our care for animals.  I am ultimately convinced that my dogs and cats think they are human!  Along with medical drugs and procedures being borrowed, we also often adopt human medical practices and protocols.  Example:  when I was growing up there weren't a lot of speciality doctors in the veterinary world, most veterinarians were general practitioners like myself, tending to every aspect of an animal veterinary needs.  Even speciality MD's were few.  As technology and medical knowledge advanced, it became more difficult to stay abreast of all the information and the birth of more speciality fields such as cardiology, orthopedics, oncology, etc, became more common place in the MD world and in the DVM world.

HOWEVER-- there are some things I am most glad that I have not mirrored from the human medical field.

My 76 year old mother-in-law has been suffering from digestive pain for several months.  After a period of treating the symptoms for the most common digestive maladies by her general practitioner with no improvement, she was referred to a internal specialist (all very logical).  The internist (keep in mind the speciality clinic is 2 hours from home) could not find room in their schedule for at least 30 days and my mother-in-law (ML) waited and suffered quietly until she could be seen.  Once at the internist,  a variety of diagnostics were repeated (blood work already performed by her GP) and a MRI was scheduled to rule in/out a variety of potentials (ulcers, gallbladder, cancer, etc.) however once again the appointment for the MRI was weeks away.  Another trip to the MRI lab (2 hours away) and another wait for the radiologist to read and report the information to the internist.  Then another repeat trip to the internist to learn what the radiologist reported, which was gallbladder disease.  Are you sitting down?  The internist now refers my ML to a surgeon...another wait for several weeks and another 2 hour trip.  Luckily my ML has a lot of patience and endurance.

Last week, we got a phone call that ML was being sent by ambulance to the hospital because she lost consciousness and was blue!  The consensus from her visit to the ER was that somehow the gallbladder is causing an obstruction blood flow that caused her to pass out.  Hmmm...that had me thinking.  In the mean time they instructed her to eat small meals and avoid fatty meals...(something I hope that her internist had already done).

This week, my husband drove his mother to the surgeon's appointment for the purpose to review her records and perform a physical examination, repeat blood work and they scheduled an appointment with the cardiologist to be sure that she had no special heart needs prior to surgery.  So guess what?  Another trip in a couple of weeks for EKG, etc.  Now...while my ML is being patient....I am starting to get frustrated.  The necessity for heart evaluation in a 76 year old woman, prior to surgery, is certainly not unwarranted.  However, I am thinking....the surgeon or the internist had to have considered her overall health prior to surgery at some point before now.  For convenience, time and expense wouldn't it have made sense to have made her appointments for both the surgeon and the cardiologist on the same day!  Make a full day of it!  Let's get this woman to surgery and fix her problem for Pete's sake!

So...there will be another trip to cardiologist, testing, waiting for results and sharing of information with the surgeon, another appointment with surgeon to discuss results and go over procedure of surgery and to set appointment date for surgery (probably weeks away).

I am thinking....a anorexic, vomiting, diarrhea dog comes into my office.  What would my client do or say if after my initial examine of their pet and preliminary evaluation and ruling out the most common, such as garbage gut, I told them they had to come back next week for x-rays, the following week for an ultrasound (luckily I have one so I wouldn't have to send him to a specialist yet) and finally diagnosed the dog with gallbladder disease and would made them an appointment in a week (or more) for surgical removal.  In the mean time the dog is still miserable, still vomiting and has diarrhea (something that is as much fun for the client as it is the dog).

Frankly, I know what my client would do.  I would be questioned about my abilities as a doctor, I would be told that they would not be back and they would be seeking another veterinarian who could take care of their dog's needs in a more expedient manner.

One of the many things I take pride in at my clinic is our compassion and empathy for our clients and their pets, and our organizational skills in trying to expedite testing, care, treatment therapies to service to save time and expense for us and our clients.  We realize that your time is as valuable as ours.  Thank God I am a VETERINARIAN!

Could Mr. Ed really be slaughtered for eating?

I'm a horse lover.  When I was five years old I wanted a horse; I begged and pleaded for one.  Although my father was a farm boy, he didn't really have a love for horses.  He grew up during times when horses were only needed for the purpose of farming. As tractors became more common place, the horse was not a necessity.  Horses cost money to feed and care for; if they didn't pay their way by working, you didn't need one.  I was persistent.  At 7 years of age, I got my first horse (Sonny-a mean little Shetland pony).  I've been on horseback ever since.  I cannot tell you why I love them; it's not because of some grandiose ideal of saving the Old West or that the horse is an iconic figure of those times, I suppose, it is because I love their beauty, the feel of their muscles under me when I ride and the companionship I have received from them over the years.  I still get goosebumps every time I watch any horse at work, whether it be cutting cattle or racing on the track.

In 2006, the federal government cut off funding for horse meat inspections, after years of lobbying from animal rightists and animal humane society activists had worked to outright ban the slaughter of horses for meat consumption.  The horse industry saw immediate effects to this governmental legislation, as the last horse slaughterhouse closed in 2007.

For the horse producers/breeders, the market on horses for sale saw a gradual decline in the value of their horses for sale, as the prices to maintain them began to increase.  The decline in value became more obvious as the numbers of U.S. horses increased due to the inability to sale these horses through the meat/slaughter industry.  Simple economics of supply and demand.  The demand decreased (no more meat outlet) but the numbers of the horses available did not.

In addition to the decrease in demand, the economic structure of our nation began to suffer and horse owners found themselves unable to keep and feed these large animals, it became necessary to sale these horses out of necessity.  Bottom line for many was 'do I want to eat, pay my rent/mortgage, utilities, clothes on my family's back, or pay for food and pasture/stable expenses for an animal that can live for 20-30 years.  A realistic decision has to be made, and taking care of one's self will also be a priority over that of the animal.  The horse industry hasn't been the only animal to suffer during these harsher economic times.  I have seen the similar effects in the small animal pet world.  Many pet owners forego vaccinations, heart worm medications, emergency care for their pets in order to feed their family and put a roof over their head.    Many animals, large and small, are literally being turned out in the streets, shelters and rescue centers because of people's inability to maintain them and keep them healthy.

Anti-slaughter activists claim it would cost taxpayers $3-5 million dollars a year for federal inspections for slaughter facilities, a hard thing for many to accept with our current economical state of affairs.  However, what they fail to share with the public is that local animal welfare organizations and State Animal Health inspectors have had an increase over 60% reports and investigations into horse neglect and abandonment since 2007.  The cost to investigate, confiscate and possibly destroy these horses also costs the government and you the taxpayer money.

Anti-slaughter activists make claims that slaughtering practices are inhumane.  These organizations only cite examples of inhumanity against the horses when there are exceptions to the rule.  If one slaughter house would not follow governmental requirements for slaughter, it gets spread all over the news and the public makes assumptions that all slaughter houses practice in the same manner.  Federal inspectors of these facilities are veterinarians, with specific guidelines that must be met.  Meat slaughter and packing facilities must follow these rules for the protection of the humans that consume these products, be it chicken, beef, pork or equine.  To think that all slaughter houses are evil, takes on the same mentality as all human doctors are bad, just because one is (i.e. Dr. Conrad Murry).  If one member of your family is a their, then surely the whole family are thieves.

When the slaughter houses closed in the U.S. These horses were then taken to Mexico and Canada for slaughter, where in some cases they were treated inhumanely.  Government officials determined that approximately 138,000 horses were slaughtered in these countries during 2010, approximately the same as were killed in the U.S. before the ban took effect in 2007.  The meat from these horses is exported to Europe where they eat horse meat.  This market not only provides jobs for U.S. citizens but monies are generated for our country in the form of taxes received from European markets.

For me and many of my sane horsemen friends, re-opening U.S. slaughter houses will be a blessing.  It can not only relieves suffering of the unwanted, unfit and neglected, but also gives our country an opportunity to regain lost jobs and revenues to our country.  Horses can be an agriculture crop, just like raising cattle, pigs and chicken for human consumption.  While I don't have an interest in eating horses, I cannot condemn those who wish too.

A few years ago I lost one of my best friends, Levi.  He had cancer and I had to put him down.  It was an emotional time.  He is buried on my farm.  The Levi's and Mr. Ed's will not end up in slaughter houses.  But there are many that will never become Levi's or Mr. Ed's and there must be a venue available that will give these horses better lives than being starved, abandoned and neglected.

Veterinary Version of "House"

The TV series House is entertaining, but the primary reason that I watch it, when I take the time to watch television, is that I enjoy the real life approach they give on how doctors (and yes I am a real doctor!) diagnose illness/disease.  The term we use is an alogrithm, a set of steps for solving a particular problem, in order to rule in or rule out what disease your pet is suffering from.  Here is a real life case that I have been working with for the past month.

Molly is an 11 year old Labrador mix female.  Molly was presented with an inflamed left rear foot.  Her foot was not hot to touch, not painful to touch, and she was not limping.  The skin in the area was oozy and red.    Most commonly when I see this type of lesion the diagnosis is pododermatitis (an skin infection of the foot).  So I started Molly on antibiotics and some steriods.

A week later we rechecked Molly's foot and it was much worse and much larger.  Sometimes dogs get grass awns, thorns or stickers buried under the skin and they fester, like when we get a splinter under our skin.  A radiograph was taken to rule out a possible foreign body or potential of a cancer (due to Molly's age).  The radiographs were normal and showed nothing but soft tissue swelling.  Some foreign bodies will not show up on radiographs.  So it was decided to give it a bit more time to work itself out, and her antibiotics were changed, on the chance that the bacteria in Molly's foot was resistant to the ones she had been on.

Another week and Molly's foot was still angry and not improving.  So we surgically opened the lesion, in hopes to find a foreign body, we flushed the wound in order to flush out any sticker or hair or other foreign matter and a biopsy was performed.  Pathology report on biopsy was inflammatory, no evidence of cancer.

When re-examined in another week, Mollie's foot was bigger and nastier looking than ever.  Still Molly was not lame nor appeared painful.  A comparative radiograph was taken; no changes in bone or other abnormalities noted.  Another biopsy was taken, deeper than the first, and a bacterial culture was taken.  Antibiotics were given at higher doses, pending lab report results.

The next day, Molly returned because her face was swollen on the left side, same side as her affected foot.  Clinically, this resembles an allergic type reaction.  A steroid injection was given and this photo graph was taken several hours after the injection and actually shows an improvement from how she looked when she came in.

The pathologist from Kansas State University called.  He reported that the biopsy showed no evidence of cancer (we sigh in relief) and the cells observed under microscopic examination were eosinophils (white cells that are active during allergic type reactions) and his official diagnosis was Eosinophilic dermatitis.  He had consulted with a K-State dermatologist, who confirmed the diagnosis.  The dermatologist said this particular form of eosinophillic reaction was rare and unique and likened it to "Wells Syndrome" seen in people.  It is unknown what causes this condition, but it is suspected that it is hypersensitivity reaction to any countless number of things such as medication, insect bites, or other foreign antigens.  Treatment of choice is steroid therapy.

Molly has gone home with oral steroids to be given for the next 30-60 days and we are hoping to see a gradual decrease in her symptoms.

This is how your doctor's mind works.  As your veterinarian examines your pet, gathers information from you about your dog and it's environment, like Sherlock Holmes looking for clues that will lead us to a plan and then work through the plan (aka algorithm) (usually starting with the most common) until we rule in and out the possibilities and arrive to our final destination...a diagnosis and treatment plan.

In 30 days, we will give you an update on Molly and her progress.

Thanksgiving Toxicity

Nope this dog does have a hangover.  With Thanksgiving just around the corner, the image did remind me to stock up on garbage gut remedies.  The staff and I have a betting pool on how many vomiting and diarrhea dogs we will see following a holiday.

I am ever watchful of my holiday guests, especially my grandchildren, feeding my dogs leftovers and tidbits from their dinner plate.  It is certainly foolish to think my dogs would turn down a piece of pumpkin pie because they knew it is bad for them.  But too much of a good thing is certainly not fun for your dog.  The veterinarian side of me has to speak out!

Pumpkin pie is rich with condensed milk, certainly high in calories and not only contributing to obesity but also the rich food can cause gastric upsets.  Many of diet conscious bakers will use artificial sweeteners, which can be toxic to pets.  Turkey skin is high in fat and again can cause dietary upsets.  I remember one Thanksgiving when Scout, my parents Jack Russell Terrier, jumped up on the kitchen bar and was chowing down on turkey carcass!  And another Thanksgiving when he jumped up on the kitchen table where my mother was cooling pecan pies...yep...minus one pie for the family dinner!

In my veterinary world, we have several names the result of indescretionary eating; garbage gut, garbage intoxication among others.  Dietary indiscretion is common while most cases are mild and self-limiting, some dogs however, suffer severe illness that can require intensive treatment.  The worst forms of garbage gut can lead to pancreatitis and other serious complications.

Symptoms include diarrhea (sometimes bloody), anorexia, and vomiting.  No fun for any dog.  Most cases may resolve 24-72 hours without long term health effects.  If clinical signs are severe or last longer than 24 hours, a visit to your veterinarian is in order.  Some dogs require I.V. fluids and anti-vomiting medications, and when this is after hours it can be especially expensive.

The best advise is to resist sharing your Thanksgiving feast with your pets, even if it means the dog is in a back bedroom or his crate during meal time (my remedy to keeping my grandchildren from feeding the dogs).  Politely request adults to not feed your dog, no matter how hard the dog begs and ask them if they are willing to pay your vet bill when they fail to follow directions!

Have a wonderful Thanksgiving and good EATING!

Clicker Training 101

Clicker training is a great tool for training.  All you need are three things; a dog, a clicker and treats.  Then start having  fun!

First you have to teach your critter that the click means that he will get a treat.  Begin by holding small treats in one hand or on a table very close by.  You can use your dog's kibble (it helps to keep your dog hungry, so I would start before you feed him his dinner or breakfast).  Click the clicker once (and only once) and give a treat.  Keep the treats small, you don't want him to get too full too quickly.  Your dog will soon learn that the click is a promise of a treat.  Don't break your promise.  Continue clicking and treating until you notice that he is looking at the clicker or you instead of the treat.  He will look as if he is saying "Get with it and click that think would ya so I can have a treat!"

Another way to do the same thing is to have your clicker and treats ready and every time your dog does something you like you will click and treat it.  You are not going to ask for anything, you simply click the action you like and reward it.  Example:  your dog is sitting quietly beside you, click and treat (C/T), your dog lays down by your feet, C/T,  your dog is looking at you, C/T.  Click and treat that special cute thing he does that makes you laugh!  Continue C/T every time your dog repeats the action you want.  You will start to see your dog offering you behaviors for the click and treat.  That is when you know he understands what this game means.  Be careful what you click...because you will get it.  If you are clicking while is is jumping up on you...you got it!  The clicker timing is the most critical part of the learning process.  You can be slow about the treat...but the click should always be timed at the exact moment your dog gives you the action you want.

Remember to keep teaching sessions short.  Dogs seem to do best with sessions only 3-5 minutes long.  If your dog loses interest or wanders off, be patient.  Wait and come back to it later.  Be sure to keep him hungry as well, often I use my dog's entire daily meal for training throughout the day.

Once your dog has the clicker language understood you can start using the clicker for having fun games that teach your dog new tricks.

The loss of a valued family pet

Growing up my dad always had German Shorthaired Pointers for hunting.  These dogs were more than just working dogs, they were also the family pet.  When I was a fifth grader we lived along the Highway North of Chanute, my parents owned and operated a 24 hour truck stop.  One morning early and before the school bus arrived, Coco had escaped from her outside dog kennel and got hit by a car and was killed.  I was devastated.  I went on to school, but was so upset that I was disruptive to the class.  I remember my teacher telling me that there was no need to be so upset over a dog!  I had a strong dislike for that teacher after that.

Anyone who considers a pet a beloved friend, companion, or family member knows the intense pain that accompanies the loss of that friend. Following are some tips on coping with that grief, and with the difficult decisions one faces upon the loss of a pet.


Intense grief over the loss of a pet is normal and natural. Don't let anyone tell you that it's silly, crazy, or overly sentimental to grieve! Your pet was a significant and constant part of your life; a source of comfort and companionship, of unconditional love and acceptance, of fun and joy. So don't be surprised if you feel devastated by the loss of such a relationship. People who don't understand the pet/owner bond may not understand your pain. All that matters, however, is how you feel. Don't let others dictate your feelings: They are valid, and may be extremely painful. Remember, you are not alone, there are many pet owners that have shared the same feelings.


The most important step you can take is to be honest about your feelings. Don't deny your pain, or your feelings of anger and guilt. Only by examining and coming to terms with your feelings can you begin to work through them.

You have a right to feel pain and grief! Someone you loved has died, and you feel alone and bereaved. You have a right to feel anger and guilt, as well. Acknowledge your feelings first, then ask yourself whether the circumstances actually justify them.

Locking away grief doesn't make it go away. Express it. Cry, scream, pound the floor, talk it out. Do what helps you the most. Don't try to avoid grief by not thinking about your pet; instead, reminisce about the good times. This will help you understand what your pet's loss actually means to you.

Some find it helpful to express their feelings and memories in poems, stories, or letters to the pet. Other strategies including rearranging your schedule to fill in the times you would have spent with your pet; preparing a memorial such as a photo collage; and talking to others about your loss.  A few years ago when I lost my dear Cookie, I rummaged through my picture box and found lots of pictures of Cookie with the family and other dogs in our home.  I bought a picture box and hung it on the picture wall of our family that goes up along our stairway.


If your family or friends love pets, they'll understand what you're going through. Don't hide your feelings in a misguided effort to appear strong and calm! Working through your feelings with another person is one of the best ways to put them in perspective and find ways to handle them. Find someone you can talk to about how much the pet meant to you and how much you miss it-someone you feel comfortable crying and grieving with.  In my clinic, we invite our grieving clients to share their pet stories and pictures with us.  Each of us at the Animal Care Center has lost pets and understand your loss.

I celebrate the bond that animals share in my life.  Each has left a lasting paw print on me, that has help shaped the person I have become and the person I continue to grow into.

Clicker Training: A fun way to teach new behaviors

Years ago my husband and I took our girls to Sea World and watched with delight as the dolphins and whales preformed aquatic aerobatics for the crowd.  This was my stepping stone to understanding how as humans we can use the power of positive reinforcement to teach and shape behaviors in any animal (man and beast).  At Sea World they teach to perform behaviors that they do naturally in the wild on cue.  To do this they first had to teach the dolphin a language that simply put..means when you do that (a specific behavior), I promise to reward you with...fish!

In the marine world, a whistle is used to teach this language of positive behavior, in our pet world we can use a clicker.  A small plastic clicker makes a unique sound that when used serves as a marker signal that tells your dog or cat or horse "Yes, that is what I want you to do" and it also promises them a reward for doing it.  In working with my dogs, I have used the verbal cue "yes" to let the dog know that he did what I wanted, however, the use of the clicker can mark/capture the moment that your pet does what you want quicker than a verbal cue.  For example:  let's say that I am trying to teach a dog not to jump up on people in greeting and that I would rather the dog sit quietly beside the guest and wait for attention.  As the dog greets a guest I ask for a sit and say "Yes" as he sits, because of my slow verbal human ability, the dog has already started back up before I can get the whole word "Yes" out of my mouth and the "Yes" is actually being completed when the dog is moving back upward.  With a clicker, I can click (thus marking the behavior) as soon as his butt his the ground and since I have taught the dog that the click means "Yes, good job and here is your reward" I can more accurately communicate with my dog.

The idea of positive reinforcement training is that you are going to use something your pet really wants (food, praise, petting) as a reward for behaving in a manner that you like.  All living creatures repeat behaviors that are rewarding and avoid ones that are not. The more pleasurable the reward the more likely the behavior will be repeated.  Conversely, we do not reward the behaviors we don't want.  Example: my dog jumps on me for attention, so I turn my back to him, I don't touch him, talk to him or give him any attention in any way.  Jumping didn't get him what he wanted...attention. But I have to tell my dog what I want instead...sit by me quietly...so I wait until he sits and BINGO!  he gets what he wanted...a pat on the head!  Try this with your children or spouse... Find a good behavior they do (I recommend one that you wish they would do more often) and praise them constantly for it.  Example:  you want your spouse to put their dirty clothes in the laundry basket and not on the floor by the basket.  So you wait and watch...every time they actually hit the basket..."Hey! Honey...I really appreciate your putting your dirty clothes in the basket" and give them a hug or kiss.  Comment on it every time.  "Thanks for the help by hitting the basket"..."It was sure nice of you to pick your dirty clothes off the floor", etc.  See what happens.  The rule is whatever you reward/reinforce is what you get.  If your reinforce good behavior...you will get it.

Your dog already knows how to sit, lie down, walk by you, come to you with ear flapping and to even lie down in one spot for a long time--when he wants to.  All you have to do is teach him the words/cues for these behaviors and make them rewarding and fun for him so he will want to do them when you ask. Clicker training is a tool that helps make this possible.  It also makes learning fun!

If you would like to learn more about Positive Reinforcement Training and using a Clicker, I invite you to e-mail me for a list of really great books that can help you or even come into the clinic to check out some of the books in my library.  I can also recommend some great video websites that give you a good starting point.

Don't borrow trouble

Matthew 6:34 "Therefore do not be anxious about tomorrow, for tomorrow will be anxious for itself.  Sufficient for the day is its own trouble".  Matthew 6:27 goes on to say "Who of you by worrying can add a single hour to his life?" My version is, "Let today's on trouble be sufficient for the day".  So I daily tell myself not to worry about tomorrow until tomorrow gets here.  One day at a time.

So why share this with you?  Stressing and worrying is a daily struggle for me as a veterinarian, as a small business owner, as a mother/grandmother, a spouse, and as a daughter of aging parents.  It's hard not to worry about things we care about, it is human nature.  I watch many of my clients worry about their pets and their pet's illnesses.  Disease processes such as diabetes, heart disease, liver disease and cancers are often very debilitating for my patients and rightfully worrisome for their owners.  However, being the pragmatist, realist and optimist I am, I try to give my ACC family (aka clients) emotional support for their worries by quoting the above bible verse often.

I came across a copy, stuffed in the back of my desk drawer, of a story from a Chicken Soup book I made years ago.  It was meaningful then and still is.  I felt it was worth sharing.

The Trouble Tree---The carpenter I hired to help me restore an old farmhouse had just finished a rough first day on the job.  A flat tire made him lose an hour of work, his electric saw quit and now his truck refused to start.  While I drove him home, he sat in stony silence.  On arriving, he invited me in to meet his family.  As we walked toward the front door, he paused briefly at a small tree, touching the tips of the branches with both hands.  When opening the door, he underwent an amazing transformation.  His face gave way to smiles and he hugged his children and gave his wife a kiss.  Afterward he walked me to the car.  We passed the tree and my curiosity got the better of me.  I asked him about what I had seen him do earlier.  "Oh, that's my trouble tree" he replied.  "I know I can't help having troubles during my day, but one thing for sure, troubles don't belong in the house with my family.  So I just hang them up on the tree every night when I come home.  Then in the morning I pick them up again.  Funny thing is," he smiled, "when I come out in the morning to pick 'em up, there ain't nearly as many as I remember hanging up the night before."

These two thoughts...the Trouble Tree and the bible verse, remind me to worry a bit less and enjoy life a little bit more.  To quote Ralph Waldo Emerson "Nothing can bring you peace but yourself."

How to make coming the vet less stress for your cat

A common complaint among my cat clients is that their cat hates the crate and hates coming to the vet.  Well it's no wonder, the only time the cat sees the crate is to take a car ride (he hates) and come to the veterinarian (he hates even more), where they are poked and prodded during a physical examination.  All these add up to cat wrestling trying to get the cat in the carrier for a trip to the vet.

You can help your cat be more at home in the crate by practicing these habits at home.  It could make your cat's next visit less stressful

Instead of having the carrier in a closet or garage in between outings, leave it in your front room and take the door off.  Put a nice bed in it.  This will give the cat a chance to go in and out, smell it, lay in it, rub against it and see it.  Things are  not so scary when you see it all the time.  Next put part of your cat's daily food in the carrier to help your cat associate it with something good.  If your cat has a favorite treat or toy, toss them in the carrier and let the cat get them.  Make the treats especially yummy.  (Be sure to put the dog outside or in his own crate when you practice this--otherwise the dog is stealing the treats!)

You can also try spraying Feliway, a synthetic pheromone, on the bedding of the carrier.  Feliway works to calm cats.  This could also be helpful to do just prior to your trip to the vet.

After your cat seems comfortable with going into the carrier on it's own, put the door back on and periodically close the door, leaving a nice treat (tuna), for a few minutes at a time and then let the cat out.  Repeat this from time to time.

Practice this through the year and your next veterinary visit may be less scary for your cat.

Colic and Stabled Horses

I got my first horse when I was 7 years old, Sonny was a nasty little Shetland Pony, pitching me off in wheat stubble and sand burrs every chance he got.  But I was undaunted.  As I grew older, I graduated to the cowboy's working horse, The American Quarter Horse.  My parents trailered me everywhere to horse shows and rodeos.  There wasn't anything I wouldn't try on horseback.  Later on, in my twenties, my Dad started keeping racing Quarter Horses.  We were simple country folks, and our horses didn't live in fancy barns with fancy stalls.  Only time they were regularly stalled was when they were in training for the track. As I went to veterinary college and during my rotation in the equine medicine department, I had the opportunity to see many horses that were suffering severely with colic and required surgery.  It occurred to me then how amazing it was that in all the years my family and I had horses, we never had one colic case.  I wondered if this was great management or just dumb luck.  I even asked my instructors if they felt that the stalling of horses increased incidences of colic...at that time, they couldn't say that they felt that was true.

Recently a research team in the United Kingdom used ultrasound to assess the frequency of intestinal contractions, comparing stalled horses to pastured horses.  Apparently, housing horses in pastures rather than stalls, could reduce the likelihood of a horse developing colic.  The research team found that stalled horses had a decrease in intestinal motility as compared to pasture kept horses.

What amazes me the most about this news is that there had to be a research team to confirm this.  Given that horses are obligate grazers and left to their own travel miles a day foraging for food and our knowledge that the gastrointestinal tract is stimulated by movement, why should this information be all that surprising.  I see the same thing in small animals, the more exercise they get, the better their digestive tract and bowel movements.  Even when we as humans are hospitalized for any purpose, our medical professionals encourage physical movement, and ask us constantly if we have had a BM today, because they know our gut mobility is decreased during our sedentary stay in the hospital.

The word 'colic' simply but means belly ache.  Lots of things can cause colic, too much grain, too much hay, not enough water, internal parasites, cancers, too hot, etc, but certainly the lack of good exercise is a contributing factor.  Standing in a stall for hours on end is not only boring....but is not healthy either.  Horses by nature are foragers.  In search for a good meal, a horse will travel 20 miles a day on the average.  When we stall our horses (all for our human reasons and convenience) we are denying them the opportunity to be a horse and compromising their intestinal health.

I am not trying to convince horse lovers to turn their horses out (well maybe a little), but we should be aware that the more we manage like mother nature, the healthier our animals may be.

Dangers of Winterization for your Pets

As winter draws near, take note of these few tips to ensure a safe winter for your pets.

Dogs and cats are attracted to the sweet smell and task of antifreeze (Ethylene Glycol).  As you prepare for winterizing your cars, be especially cautious of spills.  Antifreeze is highly toxic and is rapidly absorbed.  Initial signs can appear even 1 hour after ingestion and the mortality rate is high.  Signs of ingestion may include stumbling, vomiting, depression; your pet appears 'drunk'.  Ultimately this toxin cause renal failure; occuring 12-24 hours in cats and 36-72 hours in dogs.  Success of treatment depends largely on how quickly it is diagnosed and treated.

A safe alternative to Ethylene Glycol antifreezes is to use an antifreeze that contains Propylene Glycol.

Cold, damp weather aggravates pets with arthritis.  If your pet is having trouble getting up and down, has difficulty going up stairs, cries or snaps when picked up or touched, a visit to your veterinarian is in order.  A soft cushy bed may help along with dietary supplements of glucosamine and omega fatty acids.  Your veterinarian can prescribe a NSAID for your pet.  Never medicate your dog with human prescription or over the counter medications without first consulting your vet.  Tylenol can be fatal, especially to cats!

For your outdoor pet, make sure that adequate shelter is provided to shield from wind, moisture and cold.    Animals need fresh water, make sure the water is not frozen.  Outside pets need addtional food to sustain body temperature as well.  However, please check with your vet to decide if your pet needs additional nutritional intake, an obese dog is not a healthy dog.

As always, exercise is important!  If there is snow on the ground, check your pet's paws for ice balls or injuries.  Rinse feet off if your pet has walked where de-icers have been used.  Some de-icers are toxic when ingested (when your pet licks paws).  If your pet is having difficulty exercising due to the depth of snow, slick surfaces or appears winded, shorten the usual exercise.

Be aware and have a safe winter.

Puppy Socialization Series--Part 3

Puppies need positive experiences with people, pets and places starting at least by 8 weeks of age.  These early weeks are the ideal time for puppies to form bonds and learn to recognize many conditions that will serve as a positive foundation for later learning.  If you wait too long, your pup will be afraid of new things later, and may well react to the scary things in his world by growling, barking and later biting.

I start basic obedience skill training as soon as I get my pup.  From day one my pup learns that he has to earn his keep.  I have to work for my food, so does my dog.  From the first day, my pup gets his entire meal from my hand.  I use his daily kibble allotment as rewards for good behavior.  I put little to no food in a bowl.  Puppies are extremely food motivated and I use this to my advantage.  Eery morsel of food is a reward and there is no free food.

Day one, I start teaching a sit.  Using his kibble, I lure him into a sit with his kibble and give a morsel of kibble when his rear end touches the ground.  We may practice this for about 4 or 5 sits and stop.  Remember his attention span is short at this stage and I don't want to loose his interest.  Also if he stays a little hungry, I know that I can get him to play the game again a bit later.  I will also use part of his daily meal in food puzzles such as Kong's Havaball, Omega Paw Tricky Treat Ball (Meade's personal favorite), or other food toys.  Premier Pet Products make a lot of really good food puzzle toys.  A fun thing is to practice sits for a few kibble, then give your pup a food toy with kibble in it.  This way he learns reason and problem solving along with giving him something to do to burn energy and keep him out of trouble.  The Omega ball was a life saver for me when Meade was little.   While cooking dinner, I would give her about a third of her meal in it, it kept her busy while I was cooking and I didn't have to wonder what she was up to or worry that she was getting into something (placing child gates to block her in the kitchen area was handy too!)

In those early days, we practice sitting for everything.  I don't even put a word to it in the beginning.  We sat to be petted, we sat to go outside to the bathroom, we sat to go out to play, we sat for attention.  I carried (still do) kibble in my pocket and every time Meade was close at hand we practiced a few sits.  She thought I was the best because she got treated every time she sat down.  Sitting was an easy job she thought.  Once she started just offering a sits every time she looked at me, I started giving the action a word.

About the same time we also started learning 'down'.  Using her kibble again, you lure your puppy into a down position and treat the behavior.  Same as with sitting, no words were necessary.  Lure into a down position, say 'yes' and give her a kibble treat.  Alternate sits and downs, throughout the day.  Always end with a good sit and then throw their favorite toy or food puzzle toy.

Is  your puppy jumping on you, your family, your company.  Here is a perfect chance to teach your puppy what you would rather him do.  To say hello politely, he must sit for attention.  So when he is jumping on you, do not touch, talk or look at the puppy.  Just wait until all four feet are on the floor, say 'yes' ask for a sit and treat the sit.  Everyone must play the game.  The puppy must sit to get attention.  Timing is everything.  Attention either in the form of a treat or petting must come only when the puppy is sitting.  Not almost sitting.  It's butt must be on the floor before the reward is given.  If it starts to come up before the treat is given, then it misses the treat and must return to a sitting position and stay there long enough to get rewarded for it's sit.

There you have the beginning of a good start to a well mannered family dog.  Stay tuned for more Puppy Training Exercises with our next blog posting.

Puppy Socialization Series- Part 2

As I have mentioned in previous blogs, a puppy's most sensitive period for socialization is between 3 weeks of age and 3 months of age.  During this period, these guys are little sponges!  They are taking in everything around them.  This is when they are bonding to other animals and people, learning about objects, people and environments, learning body cues and signals and what they mean.  Puppies who do not get adequate socialization during this period tend to be fearful of unfamiliar people, dogs, sounds, objects and surroundings.  For many of my clients, they think dogs that exhibit fearful behavior is because they were abused early in life, when in fact it is really only because these dogs were not socialized to the real world they live in.

In an ideal world, puppies should stay with their mother and litter mates until they are 8 weeks of age, where they learn what it is to be a dog. How to play, how to read other dogs body language, and interact as a dog and the consequences of their interactions.  By interacting with an adult dog, their mother, the learn to be respectful of personal space. However, most puppies are weaned at six weeks of age, and still need a lot of learning about social graces.  As a new puppy owner, it will be your job to give your pup the vital information it needs in order function as a good citizen in the real world of people.

Providing positive experiences with unfamiliar people of different sizes and genders.  Invite guests to come interact with your puppy while providing treats and toys.  If you do not children in your home, but as an adult dog your pup may have contact with children, it will be important to have children around for your pup to play and interact with.  Do not leave your pup unattended with children, negative experiences such as being roughly handled or dropped can have negative influence on how your dog will preceive children later in it's life.  Children who run and scream in play can look like prey to your dog and chasing to track them down is a fun game you think, until your dog is 30# and knocking a child down.  Teaching your puppy the correct way to play with children and your children the correct way to play with the pup will save you lots of trouble down the line.

In general, I tell my new puppy owners to give some good thought to what sort of things will your dog be exposed to as an adult, and expose them to these things now in a positive way.  Walking on different surfaces, visiting your veterinarian just for fun, climbing, playing with other animals (dogs, cats, rabbits, etc). Do you have a dog that will need groomed?  Play with your pup's ear, feet, tail, take them to the groomer just to hear the sound of the clippers while getting treated for being such a good pup.   Vacuum cleaners, bathing, loud noises, etc.  Teach them to love their pet carrier/crate.  This will be something you will be using not only for house training, but for trips in the car and to your veterinarian.  Take a car ride with your puppy in the crate for a drive around the block!

Why do you want to start this training now?  If you do not specifically familiarize your pup to these things now, you will be training unwanted behaviors instead.  Everytime we interact with a dog, we are training them either to behave or misbehave.  Just like raising our human children, we are teaching them good and bad things in what they observe us doing and not doing.

Part 3 of our series will discuss early training for good behavior.  Stay tuned!! This can be fun for you and your puppy.