Thursday, May 24, 2012

Walking your dog for weight loss


Over half of U.S. dogs and cats are now overweight or obese, reports a recent study conducted by the Association for Pet Obesity Prevention. One-fifth of dogs and cats are obese -- weighing 30% over a healthy weight. America's obesity epidemic is apparently not just affecting humans.
Overweight pets suffer from a multitude of health issues including diabetes, kidney failure, and cancer. Last year, pets owners with one insurance company paid vets $25 million to treat obesity-related conditions such as asthma.
When  you combine exercise with proper diet and lifestyle, you extend the years you'll have with your pet and perhaps be healthier yourself.  Walking with your dog not only promotes better health, you will also enhance the bond your share (I call it pack walking), and prevent/cure many behavioral problems that arise in dogs due to boredom and lack of mental stimulation.  Personally, I walk 3-5 days a week with my dogs for at least 30 minutes a day.  Port and Hannah enjoy our pack walks and I use the walks not only to strengthen our health, but our pack bonding and use the time it teach a lot of different skills while we walk (i.e. not to pull on leash, sit-stays during breaks or at street corners, pay attention to me, the pack leader, during distractions such as squirrels).
So besides your iPhone or iPod, and motivation what do you need to get started? 
  • A dog.  Make sure your veterinarian examines your dog before undertaking a weight loss exercise program with your chubby buddy.  
  • Leash and collar.  Personally I don't like retractable leashes for walking with my dogs.  I use a 6-8' leash that I tie/loop around my waist so that I can walk hands free.  I want to resist pulling on the leash, thus not reinforcing any pulling behavior by the dog.  If I have a dog that pulls on a leash then I would use a Halti Head Collar or a Gentle Leader Collar, and still walk hands free.  These walks are designed to be at a brisk pace, shorter leashes are better designed for this.  Save your long leashes and retractable leashes for those casual strolls around the neighborhood or park.
  • Dress for the weather conditions.
  • If it is hot (above 80-85 degrees) be sure to take a water bottle for you and the dogs. I have a nice portable dog water bottle that has the lick bearing at the opening, so the dogs can lick it to get a drink and I can screw the top off so that I can get a drink without having to drink after the dog.
Next you set the pace.  Over weight dogs are not going to move really very fast, but for weight loss you still want to walk as brisk as your dog will tolerate.  I recommend making your "out" portion of the walk brisk and your return trip at a slower more leisurely pace, giving your pet opportunities to stop and smell his surroundings.  I start my 'pack' walks out as if I am on a mission, I have a purpose to attain a certain distance within a certain time.  Our return trip is slower, and if I am in an area that allows freedom to allow the dogs off leash for them to explore on their own, I permit this.  Your dog must have a good recall (come skill) and it should be in area that you know you can get quick control if you need to.  With young pups this is where my longer leash can come in handy, I just let them run while dragging the leash so that I can regain control quickly if needed.  Another option is to start briskly for 5 minutes, slow for 5 min, and then alternate between brisk and slower walking.  The important thing is that you control the walk and the pace.

Keep your dog close on his leash, within 2-4 feet from the side of the street and set off at a pace you feel comfortable sustaining.  It should be brisk and you should break a light sweat.  The key is to keep it up.  Don't look down when your dog wants to stop and smell something, just keep moving.  Remember  you are the pack leader and you control how the pack moves.  He will catch on.  Continue looking straight ahead, tighten the leash (don't jerk) and give a command such as "Come" "Heel" or "Here" and keep moving.  This is why I like hands free,  I don't have the reflexive instinct to jerk or tug on the leash if it is not in my hands.  It's important for your dog to understand that you have places to go and that this is different from your usual stroll through the park.  I carry a fanny pack filled with kibble so that I can intermit tingly reward my dogs for keeping up and it can also serve to keep their attention on me; they never know when the treats will come.  

Finally, just like for our personal weight loss endeavors, it is important to set goals.  I recommend sitting a goal of at least 30 minutes at a time, at least 3 days a week.  Daily would be better, but we all get busy.  If your dog is extremely overweight a 30 minute brisk walk may be too much, so you may have to start out with only 15 minutes at a time; maybe doing two 15 minute walks a day.  Or start out with 10 minutes at a brisk walk, 20 minutes for a slow leisure pace and weekly increase the time of the brisk walk portion; 15 minute brisk, 15 slow, 20 minute brisk, 10 slow, etc.  Eventually, you and your pooch should be able to work up to 30 minutes brisk and 30 minutes for a pleasure walk.

Most of all have fun, keep your tone of voice happy and excited so that your dog will be excited about going.  Take part of his kibble meal as treats for rewarding for good efforts.  Take his favorite ball or toy to play with on the slow return back.  If you have difficulty with a pulling dog, a Halti collar is recommended and become familiar with how to use it.



Monday, May 21, 2012

How I started my day

My day started as usual, with a cup of hot tea, while I got dressed, let the dogs out for morning constitutionals and prepared for work.  I left early for the clinic so that Port, my new KSDS service pup in training, and I could get a nice brisk 30 minute walk in before work.  A morning walk and hands off leash training began as Port and I headed out from the clinic.  We were one block into our walk when suddenly a large white Shepard mix charged out into the street with his ruff up and making a head on approach to us.  I stopped, scooped Port up into my arms and waited.  I wanted to make an assessment of the dog's intent.  There was no growling or barking, but every time I turned my back to the dog (indicating to him that I was not a threat) he would circle around and again face me head on.  In dog language this is a pretty aggressive move.

I continued to turn my back several times before the dog finally seemed to loose interest and headed off in another direction.  I watched him as he moved behind me down the street about a half block away and then out of sight.  I am thinking, whew...glad that is over and a potential confrontation was avoided.  I put Port back on the ground and we resumed our walk, with me looking over my shoulder to be sure the Shepard was not returning.  Less than 30 feet later, here he come again, barreling up behind me in the same manner.  Again, I scooped Port up and stopped.  Again, I turned my back to the dog and averted my eyes from him.  Now I am wondering how Port and I can even get back to the clinic since this dog will not let me move more than a few feet at a time before he makes any aggressive movements towards up.  So I call our local police department (thank God I never go anywhere without my umbilical chord).  So I stood and waited for the police to arrive to rescue us.

Three patrol cars arrived, placing their cars between the Shepard and me with Port in my arms.  The dog took off again towards a nearby wooded area.  Port and I got a ride back to the clinic in the back of a patrol car.  Once back at the clinic, not to be discouraged, we resumed our walk in a different direction.

Point of the story?  This is National Dog Bite Prevention week.  Port and I knew what to do if a strange and potentially aggressive dog crossed our path.  We educated ourselves about dog body language and knew that a frontal head on encounter could indicate aggression, even though the dog was not growling or barking.  We knew to not face the dog or make eye contact with it, by turning away (what would seem a very unnatural thing to do) we were telling the Shepard we were not a threat.  We encourage you to educate yourselves about dog language and behavior and to teach your children how to avoid potential bites.  We also DEMAND DOG OWNERS TO BE RESPONSIBLE.  Socialize your pups to strangers, spay/neuter (this dog was not neutered), provide secure yard fencing that will keep your dog from potential dangers (this dog had been tied up outside on a tether with no fenced yard), teach your dog good obedience skills.

I am concerned for this Shepard.  This neighborhood is full of walkers/runners, near two schools with kids that walk to school.  Should this dog again get free from his tether outside, someone that is not as knowledgeable as Port and me could get seriously hurt.