Advantages of Spaying Is No Myth

WARNING:  Following picture is very graphic.

I am sure many of  you remember Bob Barker announcing at the end of every Price Is Right show, to 'have your dog spayed and neutered'.  Sound advise and yet many do not heed this advise.  Millions of dogs and cats are euthanized annually for the lack of a home.  Every day there are more puppies and kittens being born than there are people available to adopt them.  While too many dogs/cats and not enough people is certainly a good reason for spaying/neutering, as a veterinarian, I can list several other very good medical reasons for having your pet spayed/neutered.  Today's case of the day makes it very clear.

Today we were visited by a 25 pound, 13 year old blue heeler mix female with a history of sudden lethargy, not eating.  It was noted by the technician during weighing, the old girl had a vaginal discharge.  Physical examination found the dog with a fever of 104 degrees (normal 101-102), pale mucous membranes,  painful and distended abdomen, and greenish vaginal discharge with a foul odor.  Owner believed this dog had been spayed and had never noticed her in heat.  Due to the nature of the discharge and experience, we were certain this girl had dead puppies inside her.  Another potential diagnosis could have been a pyometra (uterine infection) however the color of the discharge is usually a more yellowish color.

Treatment in this case was emergency surgery spay her and remove the dead puppies.  Due to her toxic/septic condition, I.V. fluids and antibiotics were needed prior to surgery.  Below is a picture of the condition of her uterus.

Currently our patient is resting quietly and being maintained on fluids and I.V. antibiotics.  It will be a couple of days of recovery and she should go  home healthy.

Not only could this have been prevented by spaying, understand that as a female dog ages, her risk of uterine infection increases.  The dollars spent on prevention will save you dollars in having to treat something like this later, and certainly is much easier on your pet.

First Aid for Lacerations in Horses

I have been a horse owner since I was five years old.  I have been kicked, bit, stepped on, bucked off and have had a broken arm and collar bone from being thrown.  Yet, to this day, I am still in love with these animals.  Over the years I have come to learn that if there is anything within 5 miles of a horse, they can find it and a way to hurt themselves on it.  Barbed wire and metal from barns are some of the worst.    

  

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This week I saw this horse for multiple lacerations to her neck, chest and front legs resulting from barbed wire.  I thought this would be a good time to talk about what to do if your horse get cut by wire. 

First of all, educate yourself about some basic horse first aid before your horse has any accidents.  Being prepared will make dealing with emergencies less stressful for you and your horse.  I also recommend having a good horse first aid kit handy.  I have one in my horse trailer and one in my barn.  Nothing more frustrating that being on the rode and discovering that my needed first aid kit was left in the tack room at home.  Ask your veterinarian what you should have in a good first aid kit.


The purpose of first aid is to minimize the damage done by injury and prevent infection, so that healing can proceed as rapidly as possible. First aid can remarkably affect the outcome. Once principles are understood, common sense must be applied. Remember, if you are in a panic, you will not be able to help anyone, so step back from the situation and gather your wits before you tackle the problem. You may not be the only animal who is excited. The injured horse will also be confused and excited which makes him dangerous. If you cannot safely approach him: do not.  RULE ONE: Keep calm.  RULE TWO: Do not let the horse hurt anyone.  RULE THREE: Get the horse to a quiet familiar location to work on him. Actively assess: "can this horse be worked on safely?".   What can I do to make it safer for the horse and me.

Lacerations can be very bloody, especially to the head and legs.  People tend to overestimate the severity of bleeding. Remember that a 1000 lb. horse has over 7 gallons of blood in his system and he can loose one gallon without serious effects. Of course, if a laceration has profuse bleeding, steps should be taken to slow it down.  Bleeding can be markedly slowed by applying pressure over the source of the blood. This should be done with a clean cloth, if available. Fold the cloth several times on itself to create a thick pad and apply a stretchy tape, Vet Wrap like material is excellent, firmly over the bleeding wound. This type dressing must be dry to adhere to itself so you must keep pressure on the bleeder as you apply the first few layers of the wrap. You can slow down the bleeding considerably using this method.

Too much padding or too loose will prevent you from getting adequate pressure. For instance towels wrapped around the bleeder are not going to help, though I see this done frequently. If the tape is very tight around the leg, change it every 10 minutes to allow circulation to the rest of the leg. If the location of the bleeding is such that you can not tape it, hold the bandage firmly in place until the bleeding stops.  If you cannot stop or control the bleeding within 15-30 minutes, then it's time to call your veterinarian.

Next:  Does your horse need stitches?  Deep cuts do not require stitches and antibiotics, full thickness lacerations do.  The pictures of the mare above are full thickness lacerations. How can you tell the difference?  The deeper layers of the skin can be white to pink resembling the tissue under the skin. One of the easiest ways to tell is that cuts which do not penetrate the skin all the way cannot have the edges of the wound separated. You cannot pull the edges of the wound apart because at the bottom the skin is still connected. How deep can a partial thickness wound be? In some areas where the skin is thick it may be 1/4 to 3/8's of an inch deep on the other hand in some areas the skin is as thin as 1/8 inch.

Lacerations that are not full thickness heal well with good cleaning practices.  I tend to use clean water from a garden hose over the wounds twice a day. Keeping the wound clean will deter flies as well.  Personally, I do not like putting any topical wound dressings on these wounds.  Studies have shown that many of these topicals actually slow down healing time.  If you absolutely feel that it needs a topical, Vetericyn VF Spray works well.  Spraying the area around the wound with fly spray can help deter flies.  If the area will be subjected to dirt like the lower legs a clean bandage kept dry is good.

Wether full skin thickness wounds should be sutured or not depends on many factors: age of the wound, location, contamination, blunt trauma, and even the first aid care all factor into the equation. Many people misunderstand the dynamics of serious infection thinking suturing insures this will not happen, when the opposite is true. Contaminated or badly traumatized wounds are safer left open and cared for properly than when sutured. The reason is drainage. Proper drainage helps insure the prevention of ascending infection. Obviously a sutured wound cannot drain. Before a wound is sutured it is imperative that it be clean, free of contamination, and badly traumatized tissue.

Open wounds that will not receive medical attention for several hours or more should be flushed out with clean water and bandaged, using an antibacterial ointment such as Neosporin. A garden hose with the nozzle set on a firm spray is ideal for flushing.  If a wound is to be stitched, flushing and bandaging will help minimize infection until the wound can be sutured. Avoid applying medications to the wound, as they may interfere with healing. If medical help is more than two hours away ask the opinion of the vet as to what you might dress the wound with. I like petroleum based triple antibiotic ointments, Furacin ointment or Nolvasan creme. A spray with diluted (somewhere between the appearance of strong tea or coffee) Betadine is good also.  If the wound is badly contaminated with dirt, it should be gently cleaned with a antibacterial soap, thoroughly flushed, then bandaged with ointment. Seek professional help with contaminated wounds, as these may have life threatening complications like tetanus or gangrene.

Avoid peroxide or blue wound sprays, as they will kill healthy tissue. The one exception would be a contaminated sole wounds. Peroxide can be used to clean these out initially.

What if structures deeper than the skin are injured?  With all wounds and particularly with full skin thickness lacerations you must consider what other structures are traumatized. With lower limb injuries penetration into a joint capsule or tendon sheath can turn a routine laceration into a lifetime performance compromising injury. Deep injuries to these areas should always be examined by a veterinarian.

Puncture wounds, such as from nails or fence posts can really be tricky.  They frequently look like minor wounds, but depending on the depth and contamination they can rapidly become infected. The first signs of problems are usually pain and swelling 24 to 72 hours after the accident. The puncture seals up rapidly, so the infection has no place to go and will spread to surrounding tissues. When in doubt about how deep the puncture is or you doubt that it is draining well have it examined by a vet. Punctures need to be open and explored for foreign bodies, thoroughly cleaned and may be left open or sutured.

I hope this information will help you be prepared for wound emergencies.  Above all else, stay calm and when in doubt, call your veterinarian.

National Service Dog Month

Meade

As many of you know, I am a volunteer puppy-raiser for KSDS, a non-profit organization in Washington, Kansas, that breeds and trains service dogs for the disabled.  My first KSDS pup was Meade, who inspired this blog, and inspired me as well.  Meade left for college in February and may be graduating with a disabled partner soon.  I am proud to have been a part of her life and her training as a service dog.

This past April, KSDS honored me with another labrador pup, named Port, from the Wine Litter theme.  Port has been an adventure so far and is teaching me new things every day, along with filling my life with laughter and joy.

The point of today's blog is to spread the word of the importance these dogs play in so many people's lives.  October is National Service Dog Awareness Month.  Much work and dedication goes into the raising and training of these amazing dogs, that serve a vital role in the life of a person with disabilities. These dedicated dogs not only provide assistance to their partner, but also serve as their companions  and as a bridge between the disabled and non-disabled world.  If anyone is curious what a service dog can bring to a life, take the time to read a recent article about Alex and his KSDS service dog, Hope, in this issue of the KSDS newsletter, The Pathway.

While October is National Service Dog Awareness month, there would not be a month to recognize if it weren't for the organizations like KSDS and many other volunteers that work together, loving and training these dogs.  KSDS is a non-profit organization, and depends heavily on volunteers and donations from people just like you and me.  I am asking you, on behalf of KSDS, to help them to continue their goal in providing assistance to the disabled by donating towards their endeavors.  If you are a part of a organization or have a school classroom that takes on a project, this is a good one.  Last year Bourbon County Northwest 4-H club collected items from KSDS's Wish List and delivered them to me for mailing.

I continue to ask those that see Port and I around town and in the clinic to be mindful of what we are trying to accomplish.  When Port is dressed in his working uniform, please do not distract him from his learning by talking to him or petting him.  Someday he hopes to follow in Meade's footsteps and become an important part of someone's life.  You can help him to accomplish this goal by asking before you touch and donate to KSDS.

Enriching Your Cat's Environment

Cats are a predatory animal.  Hunting is a 'hardwired' instinct.  Sometimes your cat may exhibit normal hunting behavior that your find objectionable, killing birds and cute bunny rabbits, attacking your feet as you walk through the house, pouncing on your head while you sleep.  Outdoor cats have ample opportunity to utilize their instincts and in essence, 'be a cat'.  Indoor cats however, do not always have the opportunity to fulfill their need to hunt.  For some cats, this can be very stressful, they haven't a way to exercise their mind or body.  Signs of stress in cats can include: scratching household items, obsessive licking and/or hair chewing, aggression toward people or other pets, inappropriate urination or defecation and night time vocalization.  A more sedentary life can lead to obesity, which in turn can lead to other medical diseases such as diabetes.  Additionally, indoor cats can also just plain get bored, thus leading them into trouble by getting into things you would prefer they not explore.

So what can we as cat owners do to enrich your indoor cat's home?  We want to offer a home that helps your cat(s) utilize their natural instincts to hunt, thus giving them mental and physical exercise.

1)  Create specific spots on bookshelves and windowsills for climbing, perching, resting and hiding.  Cat towers are great too.  Cardboard boxes are another awesome and inexpensive way to give your cat a maze of boxes to hide and explore. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6QUSWGHDlc) This link shows you an example of a homemade cat condo, but you can also purchase more attractive pre-form and cut cardboard cat stack boxes.  The solutions has designer colored box systems called "Catty Stacks House System" with each box costing approx. $14.00 each.  A SnoozePal Cat Hammock-in-a-Box is another cool cat hideaway, and for those of you with a creative touch, you could likely make one yourself.

2)  Provide opportunities to forage by using feeder toys, multiple bowls throughout the house (each with a few kibbles in them) and hiding treats in different areas.  The idea is to give your cat a chance to hunt and search for it's food.  Be sure to measure out your cat's daily meal and divide it into each of the toys and bowls so not to overfeed your cat and contribute to it's obesity (if you have a fat cat).

3)  Provide acceptable outlets such as scratching posts, for this very natural behavior.  Keep in mind to offer both vertical and horizontal surfaces (so the cat can utilize it's personal preference) and the scratching surface should be solid and stable to withstand your cat's pressure towards them.  It serves no purpose to have a cat tree that falls over every time your cat tries to use it and scares it away from the post.  

4)  Cats prefer toys that are light and can be picked up and easily carried; fuzzy mice and balls, etc.  Play with your cat; feathers on the end of a small fishing pole, laser pointers are always fun.

Here are some good links for ideas about making your cats home cat friendly:

http://catsinternational.org/articles/fun_for_cats/index.html

http://fabcats.org/behaviour/cat_friendly_home/info.html

http://fabcats.org/behaviour/

http://indoorpet.osu.edu/cats/

Cold Laser Therapy For Your Pets

For over a year now we have been using Therapeutic cold laser therapy for a variety of inflammatory conditions, in addition to its benefits in treating acute and chronic pain.  If you are not familiar with this form of therapy, let me introduce you.

Therapeutic laser involves the delivery of low-level light energy into the tissues to create a phenomenon called photobiomodulation.  At the cellular level, the light absorbed stimulates a variety of benefits such as increasing white cell activity (the cells that fight infection), fibroblast activity (cells responsible in healing), decreasing inflammation, increases microcirculation and releases endorphins (responsible for pain relief).

In our practice we have utilized the laser therapy to help relieve the chronic pain associated with osteoarthritis.  With it's use for these patients, we have been able to reduce the need for oral pain medications, many of which can cause gastric upsets and disrupt liver function.  We have also utilized laser therapy for animals that have suffered from fractures and extensive wounds following trauma.  Laser therapy has help these animals not only in the reduction of their pain, but also decreased their healing time significantly.  Lick granulomas and acute moist dermatitis (hot spots) have also been treated with laser therapy with good results in decreasing the pain associated with them and decreasing their healing time without other medications such as steroids.

Wound following two weeks laser therapy debridement. 

Following 4 weeks laser therapy and partial surgical closure

These pictures were taken of a cat that suffered from thermal burns having rode on the manifold of a car.  Laser therapy was initiated initially to help in the debridement of necrotic tissue for two weeks, the result is seen in the first photo.  The second photo shown was after four weeks of laser therapy and partial surgical closure of the wound.

We are proud to say this cat has fully recovered with minimal scarring and in approximately half the time that it would have taken without laser therapy.

Laser therapy is beneficial for any condition where inflammation is present; ear hematomas, post-surgical procedures, intervertebral disc rupture.

We have also used laser therapy extensively for sore muscles in horses associated with over use,  and trauma.

Can laser therapy help your pet or horse?  Call and talk to our technical staff or doctor.

Cuterebra is not really Cute

Case of the day:  This young cat visited our office today because its owner noted a lump on its leg.  With careful examination we found this cute little life form peeking it's little body out from the skin opening of the cat.  Reminds us of the movie "Alien".  This life form is a larvae from a cuterebra (CUTE--uh--Ree-bruh) fly. Cuterebra is a bee-like fly which lays her eggs in places where target mammals will come in contact with them. Such locations as the orifices of bird and squirrel nests, burrows and animal paths are favorites. Eggs may be laid on stones or vegetation. The fly’s goal is to get the eggs onto the coat of the host, from which the egg responds to the host’s body heat by hatching to a larval stage. The larvae then enter the mouth or nose during grooming. Less often an open wound on the body might be the entrance point.

The larvae then migrate to a subcutaneous (under the skin) spot on the body where they can make a tiny opening through the skin for breathing. The larvae spend about a month in the host, after which they emerge through the skin, fall to the ground and pupate (enter a cocoon stage). Insect larvae undergo stages called “instars.” Early in the season, such as April and May we expect to see the second instar, which is 5-10 mm. in length and light in color. The third instar is much larger, as big as a child’s thumb, and much darker. They are usually adorned with spines.

Dogs and cats are aberrant hosts, but do sometimes become infected. Wild rabbits and squirrels are the most common victims and can sometimes have a dozen or more Cuterebra cysts at once. When a cat or kitten is presented to a veterinarian with a Cuterebra (colloquially called a “wolf”) the owner is typically baffled by the condition. The sight of “something” moving inside the wound is quite alarming. I say “cat or kitten” because, while dogs are reported to become infected with Cuterebra, I’ve not seen an affected dog in twenty years of practice.

Treatment starts with light sedation of the cooperative patient or general anesthesia of a cat who resists help. Hair is clipped from the area of the cyst and the entire clipped area s disinfected and prepared for surgery. Operating forceps are used to enlarge the opening sufficiently to allow extraction of the larva without undue compression. Rupture of the larva can lead to release of foreign material that may prevent the wound from healing. In some cases anaphylactic shock may take the patient’s life. The wound is thoroughly irrigated per standard abscess-treatment protocol Antibiotics are indicated, and I have successfully used Convenia in Cuterebra victims. Ointments, bacitracin, are useful to irrigate the wound and help control infection topically while a systemic antibiotic works from the inside.

Canine Distemper a real killer

Yesterday we admitted into the hospital an unvaccinated sick puppy.  Symptoms of the puppy included a fever, anorexia, dehydration, screaming when touched, muscle twitches and an inability to stand on it's own.  Following blood work and based on its fever and neurological symptoms our diagnosis was canine distemper;  a highly contagious viral disease of dogs seen worldwide.  Besides being transmitted by dogs, distemper is also carried by raccoons and coyotes, often seen in our neck of the woods.

Distemper initially reproduces in the lymphatic tissue of the respiratory tract. Once within the lymphatic tissues, it spreads to the respiratory system (lungs and nasal passages), the GI tract, as well as the central nervous system and optic nerves.  How severely a dog will be effected by the virus depends on its level of immunity; thus puppies are effected the most severely as their immune systems are poorly developed.

As with most viruses, symptoms begin 3-6 days after exposure starting with a fever and inappetence.  The fever subsides for several days before a second fever occurs,  this may be accompanied by serous nasal discharge, mattery eyes, and anorexia. GI and respiratory signs may follow and are usually complicated by secondary bacterial infections. Inflammation of the brain (encephalitis) is a common symptom seen in puppies.  Once the brain is infected the dog can suffer with fever, confusion, drowsiness, and fatigue and advance to more serious symptoms of  seizures or convulsions with drooling and often chewing movements of the jaw (gum chewing fits), involuntary twitching of muscles, and paresis or paralysis.  The seizures become more frequent and severe, and the dog may fall on its side and paddle its legs; involuntary urination and defecation (grand mal seizure, epileptiform convulsion) often occur. A dog may exhibit any or all of these neurologic signs in addition to others in the course of the disease. The course of the systemic disease may be as short as 10 days, but the onset of neurologic signs may be delayed for several weeks or months.

Chronic distemper encephalitis (old dog encephalitis, [ODE]), a condition often marked by ataxia, compulsive movements such as head pressing or continual pacing, and incoordinated hypermetria, may be seen in adult dogs without a history of signs related to systemic canine distemper. The development of neurologic signs is often more progressive.  Dogs with ODE are not infectious. The disease is caused by an inflammatory reaction associated with persistent canine distemper virus infection in the CNS.

Treatment is directed at limiting secondary bacterial invasion with antibiotics, supporting fluid balance, and controlling nervous manifestations with anticonvulsants. No single treatment is specific or uniformly successful. Dogs may recover completely from systemic manifestations, but good nursing care is essential. Despite intensive care, some dogs do not make a satisfactory recovery.

Prevention: Vaccinate!! Vaccination for puppies should begin at 6 weeks of age and boostered every 3-4 weeks until 16 weeks of age.

Hot Spots

A Hot spot is a common term for many of us and no I am not going to talk about finding a free Wi-fi area for you to check out this blog.  For pet owners and veterinarians the term "hot spot" refers to acute moist dermatitis. Deciphered, a hot spot is a warm, painful, swollen patch of skin that oozes pus and gives off a foul odor. Hair in the area is lost rapidly. The infection progresses when the dog licks and chews the site. These circular patches appear suddenly and enlarge 
quickly, often within a matter of hours.

Yesterday this patient was seen for this very large and painful hot spot.

This image is of the back end of the dog above it's tail and after we had trimmed the hair away that was matted to the area with pus.


Hot spots can occur anywhere on the body, often in more than one spot. One very typical location is under the ear flaps in large breeds with heavy, hairy ears, such as Newfoundlands and Golden Retrievers. Hot spots occur most often in breeds with heavy coats, and tend to appear just before shedding, when moist, dead hair is trapped next to the skin. Fleas, mites, skin allergies, irritant skin diseases, ear and anal gland infections, and neglected grooming are other factors that can initiate the itch-scratch-itch cycle.

Treatment: Hot spots are extremely painful. The dog usually will need to be sedated or anesthetized for the initial treatment. Your veterinarian will clip away hair to expose the hot spot, then gently cleanse the skin and allow the skin to dry. Oral antibiotics are usually prescribed. Oral corticosteroids are often prescribed to control severe itching.  To prevent further self trauma from itching an Elizabethan collar is often put on the dog.  Most importantly, predisposing skin problems must be treated as well, such as treatment for fleas and mites.

In hot, humid weather, always be sure to dry your heavy-coated dog thoroughly after bathing them and after they swim. Otherwise, the conditions are perfect for a hot spot to develop.

Memorial Day's Memories

Every year on the last Monday of May, Memorial Day, we close our banks, federal offices and many other businesses in celebration and reflection of the soldiers fallen to protect our country.  Some may not remember that Memorial Day was once known as Decoration Day (I remember-but then I am old).  Decoration day began during the civil war among freed slaves and other Black American families, as a celebration of both black and white Union soldiers who fought for liberation and justice. The gradual name changed from "Decoration Day" to "Memorial Day", which did not become more common until after WWII, and was not declared the official name by Federal law until 1967. During the 20th century Memorial Day was extended to honor all Americans who have died in all wars.  Memorial Day was an occasion for more general expressions of memory, as people visited the graves of their deceased relatives in church cemeteries, whether they had served in the military or not. 


In 1968, Congress passed the Uniform Holiday BIll, which moved four holidays, including Memorial Day, from their traditional dates to a specified Monday in order to create a convenient three-day weekend. The change moved Memorial Day from its traditional May 30 date to the last Monday in May. The law took effect at the federal level in 1971. 


The change in when we celebrate Memorial Day, with a long week-end, changed the face of the holiday.  It has become a long weekend increasingly devoted to shopping, family gatherings, fireworks, trips to the beach, and national media events such as the Indianapolis 500 auto race (which my husband plans on watching today).  Personally I feel that by changing the date for the sake of a three-day week-end has diminished the very principle of the day.  Many Americans have developed a nonchalant observance of this day, seeing it only as an opportunity to have some extra time off from work.  The holiday has become watered down over the years and with exception of perhaps a soldier and his family, few honor this holiday as it was intended.


This morning, after my hospital rounds, I visited our own Fort Scott National Cemetery.  I have a son-in-law, Josph Lister, buried there December 2, 2003, having been killed in action in Iraq November 20, 2003.  As I visited Joe, filling him in on news of the family, I took the time to walk about the others that surrounded him.  Each traditional National Cemetery grave marker is honored with a small American Flag.  Some graves are also decorated with flowers from friends and family members.  As I walk among these American heroes, I cannot help but give thanks to these men and women for their dedication and sacrifice in helping keep us and others free.  Free--the key word in the meaning of this holiday, began in celebration of soldiers who fought for liberation (freedom) and justice in the Civil War and a tradition of all future soldiers to defend those who cannot defend themselves.

Fort Scott National Cemetery

Walking your dog for weight loss

Over half of U.S. dogs and cats are now overweight or obese, reports a recent study conducted by the Association for Pet Obesity Prevention. One-fifth of dogs and cats are obese -- weighing 30% over a healthy weight. America's obesity epidemic is apparently not just affecting humans.

Overweight pets suffer from a multitude of health issues including diabetes, kidney failure, and cancer. Last year, pets owners with one insurance company paid vets $25 million to treat obesity-related conditions such as asthma.

When  you combine exercise with proper diet and lifestyle, you extend the years you'll have with your pet and perhaps be healthier yourself.  Walking with your dog not only promotes better health, you will also enhance the bond your share (I call it pack walking), and prevent/cure many behavioral problems that arise in dogs due to boredom and lack of mental stimulation.  Personally, I walk 3-5 days a week with my dogs for at least 30 minutes a day.  Port and Hannah enjoy our pack walks and I use the walks not only to strengthen our health, but our pack bonding and use the time it teach a lot of different skills while we walk (i.e. not to pull on leash, sit-stays during breaks or at street corners, pay attention to me, the pack leader, during distractions such as squirrels).

So besides your iPhone or iPod, and motivation what do you need to get started? 

• A dog.  Make sure your veterinarian examines your dog before undertaking a weight loss exercise program with your chubby buddy.  
• Leash and collar.  Personally I don't like retractable leashes for walking with my dogs.  I use a 6-8' leash that I tie/loop around my waist so that I can walk hands free.  I want to resist pulling on the leash, thus not reinforcing any pulling behavior by the dog.  If I have a dog that pulls on a leash then I would use a Halti Head Collar or a Gentle Leader Collar, and still walk hands free.  These walks are designed to be at a brisk pace, shorter leashes are better designed for this.  Save your long leashes and retractable leashes for those casual strolls around the neighborhood or park.
• Dress for the weather conditions.
• If it is hot (above 80-85 degrees) be sure to take a water bottle for you and the dogs. I have a nice portable dog water bottle that has the lick bearing at the opening, so the dogs can lick it to get a drink and I can screw the top off so that I can get a drink without having to drink after the dog.

Next you set the pace.  Over weight dogs are not going to move really very fast, but for weight loss you still want to walk as brisk as your dog will tolerate.  I recommend making your "out" portion of the walk brisk and your return trip at a slower more leisurely pace, giving your pet opportunities to stop and smell his surroundings.  I start my 'pack' walks out as if I am on a mission, I have a purpose to attain a certain distance within a certain time.  Our return trip is slower, and if I am in an area that allows freedom to allow the dogs off leash for them to explore on their own, I permit this.  Your dog must have a good recall (come skill) and it should be in area that you know you can get quick control if you need to.  With young pups this is where my longer leash can come in handy, I just let them run while dragging the leash so that I can regain control quickly if needed.  Another option is to start briskly for 5 minutes, slow for 5 min, and then alternate between brisk and slower walking.  The important thing is that you control the walk and the pace.

Keep your dog close on his leash, within 2-4 feet from the side of the street and set off at a pace you feel comfortable sustaining.  It should be brisk and you should break a light sweat.  The key is to keep it up.  Don't look down when your dog wants to stop and smell something, just keep moving.  Remember  you are the pack leader and you control how the pack moves.  He will catch on.  Continue looking straight ahead, tighten the leash (don't jerk) and give a command such as "Come" "Heel" or "Here" and keep moving.  This is why I like hands free,  I don't have the reflexive instinct to jerk or tug on the leash if it is not in my hands.  It's important for your dog to understand that you have places to go and that this is different from your usual stroll through the park.  I carry a fanny pack filled with kibble so that I can intermit tingly reward my dogs for keeping up and it can also serve to keep their attention on me; they never know when the treats will come.  

Finally, just like for our personal weight loss endeavors, it is important to set goals.  I recommend sitting a goal of at least 30 minutes at a time, at least 3 days a week.  Daily would be better, but we all get busy.  If your dog is extremely overweight a 30 minute brisk walk may be too much, so you may have to start out with only 15 minutes at a time; maybe doing two 15 minute walks a day.  Or start out with 10 minutes at a brisk walk, 20 minutes for a slow leisure pace and weekly increase the time of the brisk walk portion; 15 minute brisk, 15 slow, 20 minute brisk, 10 slow, etc.  Eventually, you and your pooch should be able to work up to 30 minutes brisk and 30 minutes for a pleasure walk.

Most of all have fun, keep your tone of voice happy and excited so that your dog will be excited about going.  Take part of his kibble meal as treats for rewarding for good efforts.  Take his favorite ball or toy to play with on the slow return back.  If you have difficulty with a pulling dog, a Halti collar is recommended and become familiar with how to use it.

How I started my day

My day started as usual, with a cup of hot tea, while I got dressed, let the dogs out for morning constitutionals and prepared for work.  I left early for the clinic so that Port, my new KSDS service pup in training, and I could get a nice brisk 30 minute walk in before work.  A morning walk and hands off leash training began as Port and I headed out from the clinic.  We were one block into our walk when suddenly a large white Shepard mix charged out into the street with his ruff up and making a head on approach to us.  I stopped, scooped Port up into my arms and waited.  I wanted to make an assessment of the dog's intent.  There was no growling or barking, but every time I turned my back to the dog (indicating to him that I was not a threat) he would circle around and again face me head on.  In dog language this is a pretty aggressive move.

I continued to turn my back several times before the dog finally seemed to loose interest and headed off in another direction.  I watched him as he moved behind me down the street about a half block away and then out of sight.  I am thinking, whew...glad that is over and a potential confrontation was avoided.  I put Port back on the ground and we resumed our walk, with me looking over my shoulder to be sure the Shepard was not returning.  Less than 30 feet later, here he come again, barreling up behind me in the same manner.  Again, I scooped Port up and stopped.  Again, I turned my back to the dog and averted my eyes from him.  Now I am wondering how Port and I can even get back to the clinic since this dog will not let me move more than a few feet at a time before he makes any aggressive movements towards up.  So I call our local police department (thank God I never go anywhere without my umbilical chord).  So I stood and waited for the police to arrive to rescue us.

Three patrol cars arrived, placing their cars between the Shepard and me with Port in my arms.  The dog took off again towards a nearby wooded area.  Port and I got a ride back to the clinic in the back of a patrol car.  Once back at the clinic, not to be discouraged, we resumed our walk in a different direction.

Point of the story?  This is National Dog Bite Prevention week.  Port and I knew what to do if a strange and potentially aggressive dog crossed our path.  We educated ourselves about dog body language and knew that a frontal head on encounter could indicate aggression, even though the dog was not growling or barking.  We knew to not face the dog or make eye contact with it, by turning away (what would seem a very unnatural thing to do) we were telling the Shepard we were not a threat.  We encourage you to educate yourselves about dog language and behavior and to teach your children how to avoid potential bites.  We also DEMAND DOG OWNERS TO BE RESPONSIBLE.  Socialize your pups to strangers, spay/neuter (this dog was not neutered), provide secure yard fencing that will keep your dog from potential dangers (this dog had been tied up outside on a tether with no fenced yard), teach your dog good obedience skills.

I am concerned for this Shepard.  This neighborhood is full of walkers/runners, near two schools with kids that walk to school.  Should this dog again get free from his tether outside, someone that is not as knowledgeable as Port and me could get seriously hurt.

National Dog Bite Prevention Week

May 20-26th is National Dog Bite Prevention week.  Every year we use this week to help bring awareness to the public how they can help prevent the incidence of dog bites seen in the U.S..

Did you know that ...

• 4.7 million people in this country are bitten by dogs every year
• children are by far the most common victims
• 800,000 Americans receive medical attention for dog bites each year
• children are far more likely to be severely injured; approximately 400,000 receive medical attention every year
• most dog bites affecting young children occur during everyday activities and while interacting with familiar dogs
• senior citizens are the second most common dog bite victims

There are a number of things that you can do to avoid dog bites, ranging from properly training and socializing your pet to educating your children on how, or if, they should approach a dog. Information is one of the best cures for this public health crisis.

What can you do as a dog owner?

• Carefully select your pet. Puppies should not be obtained on impulse.
• Make sure your pet is socialized as a young puppy so it feels at ease around people and other animals.
• Don't put your dog in a position where it feels threatened or teased.
• Train your dog. The basic commands "sit," "stay," "no," and "come" help dogs understand what is expected of them and can be incorporated into fun activities that build a bond of trust between pets and people.
• Walk and execrcise your dog regularly to keep it healthy and provide mental stimulation.
• Avoid highly excitable games like wrestling or tug-of-war.
• Use a leash in public to ensure you are able to control your dog.
• Keep your dog healthy. Have your dog vaccinated against rabies and preventable infectious diseases. Parasite control and other health care are important because how your dog feels affects how it behaves.
• Neuter your pet.
• If you have a fenced yard, make sure the gates are secure.

How can you protect your family?

• Be cautious around strange dogs, and treat your own pet with respect. Because children are the most common victims of dog bites, parents and caregivers should:
• NEVER leave a baby or small child alone with a dog.
• Be alert for potentially dangerous situations.
• Teach their children – including toddlers – to be careful around pets. Children must learn not to approach strange dogs or try to pet dogs through fences. Teach children to ask permission from the dog's owner before petting the dog.

All dogs can bite and be a danger with the right circumstances of events.  Educate yourself how you can be a responsible dog owner.

Canine Osteoscarcoma aka Bone Cancer

Last Friday I had the pleasure of meeting, Dolly, a 13 year old Chesapeake Bay Retriever.  I had the unfortunate job of advising her owner that Dolly was suffering with Canine Osteosarcoma/Chondrosarcoma.

Osteosarcoma (OSA) is a rapidly growing, destructive neoplasm of bone that accounts for 80% of all malignant bone tumors in dogs. Neoplasms of the skeleton are more common in dogs than in any other species. Primary bone tumors such as OSA are five times more common than metastatic skeletal neoplasms, and malignant tumors are more common than benign neoplasms.  Osteosarcoma is most common in giant and large breed dogs (90%) and is uncommon in small and medium breeds. Breeds especially predisposed to development of OSA include Saint Bernards, Rottweilers, Great Danes, Golden Retrievers, Irish setters, Doberman Pinschers, and Labrador retrievers. The mean age of occurrence is 7-1/2 years and incidence of OSA is slightly more common in males than females.

Ionizing radiation, chemical carcinogens, foreign bodies (including metal implants, such as internal fixators, bullets, and bone transplants), and pre-existing skeletal abnormalities such as sites of healed fractures contribute to the development of OSA. In addition, there have been correlations with genetic predisposition to tumor development in certain family lines. Dogs with OSA have been found to have aberrations of the p53 tumor suppressor gene.  In Dolly's case, when she was young, had had a fracture in this joint.  Because the radiographic changes in Dolly's bone involved the joint, this cancer could actually be considered a chondrosarcoma (originating from the cartilage surface of the bone), that grew out to include the bone itself.


The most common clinical signs of OSA involving the appendicular skeleton are lameness, swelling, and pain. The considerable soft tissue swelling is predominantly due to edema and reactive fibroplasia caused by impaired circulation in the subcutaneous and intramuscular tissue proximal and distal to the tumor.

Congestion, edema, fibroplasia, and periosteal new bone formation accompany continued tumor expansion. Muscle atrophy of the affected limb may occur from disuse. Pathological fractures may occur later in the disease as the neoplasm weakens the cortical bone. Osteolytic neoplasms are larger, more aggressive, exhibit rapid growth, and cause pathological fractures. Neoplasms involving the skull and nasal cavity can result in neurological deficits, dyspnea, nasal obstruction, and a bloody to purulent nasal discharge.

Lymph Node enlargement occasionally can be observed in sites distal to the tumor. Lung metastases may be associated with the development of hypertrophic osteopathy where space occupying lesions of the lung incite subperiosteal formation of new bone. Lymph nodes draining the neoplastic site may become enlarged and firm following tumor metastasis.


Treatment of OSA can include surgery, chemotherapy, and radiation therapy. Survival without treatment is ~ 2-6 months.10 Amputation is palliative but rarely increases survival time. Chemotherapy administered after amputation helps to control metastatic disease and may increase survival time significantly. The most successful chemotherapy protocol is a combination of cisplatin and doxorubicin that is administered following amputation.


Prognosis for OSA is variable, and depends on how advanced the cancer is when first diagnosed, if it has already moved to the lungs and lymph nodes, and whether there is extension of the cancer into soft tissue (which Dolly had).

If you note a persistent limp or swelling in your large breed pet contact your veterinarian.  The earlier the diagnosis, the more success there is for treatment with amputation and chemotherapy.

Senior Pet Anesthesia

Today I visited with a retired woman, that has a retired pet, Chomper.  Ok, the pet wasn't retired, but he was a senior citizen.  Mrs. Retired traveled and Chomper had visited with multiple veterinarians during their travels, the last one had recommended her to have Chomper's teeth cleaned.  Mrs. Retired requested a wellness exam and approved wellness profile blood work.  Chomper passed with flying colors, except for his teeth.  Mrs. Retired had lots of concerns about having Chomper's teeth cleaned because, in pet land, a dental cleaning is an anesthetic procedure.

Concerns about anesthetics is common among my clients and is especially so when the pet is a senior citizen.  It is a very legitimate concern and a big concern for veterinarians as well.  Older pets are more likely to have conditions such as heart failure, kidney dysfunction, and liver dysfunction.  These conditions can present anesthetic problems for your veterinarian and your pet.  Kudos! to Mrs. Retired for understanding why a wellness blood profile and exam was important and allowing us to check Chomper!  Pre-anesthetic exams and blood work are key to a smooth anesthetic procedure.  If your veterinarian discovers an irregularity, it doesn't necessarily mean the procedure cannot be done; it allows your veterinarian to take the necessary precautions for a safer procedure.

Because veterinarians know that older animals do not metabolize drugs as efficiently or quickly as younger animals, the drugs used for sedation prior to surgery are tailored to your pet's concurrent conditions, age and breed.  Pre-surgical sedation is necessary so that less anesthetics will be required for your pet.  Most pre-surgical drugs are metabolized and eliminated through the liver and kidneys, an important reason why pre-surgical blood work is important.  If your pet has pre-existing conditions, there may be additional drugs need to help it compensate for the side effects of anesthetics (such as decrease in blood pressure and temperature).  I.V. fluids may be needed to insure sufficient blood flow to kidneys and heart, heating pads during surgery for good temperature circulation, etc.

Monitoring devices that measure heart rate, heart rhythm, blood pressure, temperature, respiration and oxygenation is important to all patients, especially for the senior pet.  These devices can warn your veterinarian of problems during the procedure so that immediate action can be taken by your veterinarian and their surgical staff.

In most cases, the anesthetic being used will be a gas.  Today's gas anesthetics are much safer than yester-years.  This is not to say there are not risks.  Any anesthetic procedure, no matter how simple or short it may be, carries risk.  Depending on the procedure, your veterinarian will determine how 'deep' the plane of anesthetic will be needed.  Procedures such as dental cleanings do not require your pet to be as deeply asleep as a more complicated surgery. Gas anesthetics are delivered through an intubation tube that is passed from your pet's trachea toward it's lungs.  This tube not only serves to deliver the anesthetic, but delivers oxygen to your pet and can allow the veterinary staff to actually 'breathe' for your pet should there be a need.

With better veterinary preventative medicine, pets are living longer and we are seeing more age related conditions in our pets.  Should your veterinarian recommend an anesthetic procedure, we should not pass off your pet as too old to handle sedation or anesthesia based on age alone.  Often the recommended anesthetic procedure can and will increase your pet's quality of life and extend it's  life.

Your veterinarian and/or veterinary staff should discuss the risks vs benefits with you prior to your pet's needed anesthetic procedure.  If they do not, then you should ask. There is an increase in cost to care for senior pet's, but that comes with an increase in safety for your pet.  At the ACC we understand that current economics makes it difficult for some of our clients to afford some surgical procedures.  We tailor our anesthetic procedure to your pet's unique requirements, then it is left to you to decide which recommended precautions fit your budget.  Keep in mind, no matter how many precautions are made, there are always risks.  Each animal has their own unique chemistry and veterinarians cannot know with all certainty how your pet will respond to their tailored anesthetics.  You and your veterinarian need a good working relationship, based on trust, in order for you to work as a team to provide the best care for your pet.

No pretty picture images with this blog today.  Nothing pretty in what I am about to discuss.  Yesterday I admitted into the hospital our 10th parvo virus case in the last 90 days.  I preach wellness exams and vaccination protocols to people until I can hear the lecture in my dreams.  Over the years, I have seen clients appear dumbfounded that their puppy has contracted parvo because 'he has had his 'puppy shots', meaning the pup has had one vaccine at weaning by the breeder (sometimes not) and have not completed it's series of vaccinations to insure better protection.  Some breeders fail to educate the new puppy owners that these puppies will need boosters every 3-4 weeks until 12-16 weeks of age.  The back yard breeder, the one that thinks they will make money selling their purebred pet's puppies, often have not even given the first puppy vaccine nor de-wormed it.  Certainly those 'free puppies' that you get in a Walmart parking lot, out of the back of someone's truck, have not been vaccinated.  And I, for one, would not trust them even if they tell you they have given the pup a vaccine.  They didn't even have enough good sense or pet responsibility to have their female (or male) spayed in the first place.

Now for our recent parvo case.  This pup was 9 weeks old, and supposedly had it's first vaccination around 6 weeks of age.  The puppy was allowed to intermingle with lot's of other dogs and puppies, whose vaccination status is questionable and in a potentially volatile environment. Since the owner acquired the puppy, it had not been to a veterinarian for a wellness exam.  It had not been de-wormed.  A few days before the owner brought the puppy into to see me, it started vomiting and had diarrhea.  It had not eaten in 3 days.  The straw that broke the camel's back was the fact that the owner had, just that morning, given the pup a booster vaccination purchased from the local farm and ranch store!  Here is what is wrong with vaccinating your own pets!  This puppy was wormy, dehydrated from 3 days of fluid losses (vomiting and diarrhea), sick (a compromised immune system) and now given a vaccine (which gives it particles of viruses) to further compromise the puppy.  Inwardly, I am thinking:  "I have a case of the flu and it must surely be a great idea to give me more of it!"

I understand the desire to save money, even the necessity to save money.  I have to live within a given budget just like anyone else.  I know your local feed store or farm and tractor store has vaccines available so that you can give your dog it's vaccinations.  You can buy them off the internet (not my on-line pharmacy store).  Over the counter and the internet these vaccines are about $5-$10.  If over the internet, you also pay for shipping.  On the average buying your pet vaccines are $10-$12.  In my clinic, a parvo/distemper,7-way vaccination, is $12.00.  So where is the savings?

The perceived savings is in the fact the puppy did not receive a wellness exam, a very critical part of your puppy's health future.  During this examination, your veterinarian will examine your puppy from head to toe to be sure it does not have any other conditions that may compromise it's health status by giving a vaccine.  I have seen puppies that are so loaded with worms that I postponed vaccinations by a week so that the pup could be healthier.  I have had puppies running a fever, indicating potential infection (viral or bacterial) and giving a vaccine could have made the puppy ill.  When you pay for a wellness examination, you are paying for your veterinarian's knowledge and experience about what is best for your puppy.  The actual action of injecting the vaccine isn't rocket science, but knowing if your pup is healthy enough does require some knowledge that your veterinarian gained by taking immunology, parasitology and other animal health classes during veterinary college.  You are paying for your veterinarian's personal brain powered database.

Other reasons that vaccinating your own pets is not a sound idea:

• Most veterinary clinics, boarding kennels, groomers and dog training schools will not recognize self vaccinated dogs.  These facilities don't want these diseases in their kennels.  Without proof of vaccination, they are risking spread of these diseases to other dogs in their facility.  Anyone can say they vaccinated their dog themselves.  Would you want your pet exposed to these difficult to treat diseases, trusting that the 'anyone' was honest and gave the vaccines properly and with a reliable vaccine?
• Vaccines are very fragile to heat.  If not kept cold, the particles of the vaccine could become denatured and not be protective to your pet.  Do you want to trust a feed store employee, often a high school or college student, that the vaccine was unpacked promptly on arrival and stored under refrigeration in a prompt manner?  Maybe they sat in a box, in a back room or on a loading dock, for hours before they were unpacked.  Did the store employee note they were warm?  Did they shelve them anyway?  Do you want to trust your pet's health to this uncertainty?
• Not all vaccines are alike. Some are better than others.  Do you know which brands to trust?  Does your feed store retailer know?  If you ask them, do you feel secure that they have the animal health knowledge to advise you properly?  Feed store personal are not trained in immunology.
• You can give a shot "just like your vet" but are you not trained to recognize if it is safe and your pet is healthy enough and have no underlying conditions that may make vaccinating unsafe?  
• Vaccines are not without risk.  When you give a vaccine you are actually giving them particles of the viruses (disease) so that they will build antibodies against the disease.  Did you know that your dog can have an allergic reaction to the vaccine?  These reactions can be immediate or delayed.  Would you recognize them?  Do you know what to look for?  Your veterinarian does and can advise you.

Certainly, it is necessary for this clinic to make money.  If we didn't, then we would not be here to help you.  However, we do not get rich off of vaccinating your pet.  For this clinic, our primary goal is to help you keep your pet healthy by providing you with information and services you need to help your pet have a long healthy life.  We work hard to set your puppy or kitten up for a head start towards a healthy adulthood.  With our knowledge, we will recognize potential problems that you may not be aware of.  The money you spend at the veterinarian for vaccinations isn't just about the vaccination, you are paying for their knowledge and expertise in animal health.  You are also paying for the assurance that your pet is not receiving medication/vaccines that is not appropriate for your pet.

When you bring an animal into your life, be it dog, cat, gerbil, or any other creature, it is your responsibility to provide for it's total care.  This means not only are you making a promise to the animal that you will provide adequate food, housing and love, you are also financially responsible for it's general health and welfare.  This includes preventative care such as vaccinations, flea control, heart worm prevention, spay/neutering and adequate funds available for emergency care.  A responsible person does not acquire an animal they cannot afford to care for.  

 I fully realize that money is tight for many people and many give vaccines to their pet to help their budget.  I will defend your right to purchase these products elsewhere if the manufacturer is willing to sell them and back them up. But beware, vaccinating is not so simple and not without risks.  You are potentially leaving your pet vulnerable to infections (if vaccines were not stored properly and you did not vaccinate for the appropriate diseases).  You are also denying your pet the advantages that a physical examination provide, where other health issues may be recognized by your trained, experienced veterinarian.  When it comes to something as crucial and safety-fraught as a vaccine, I just can’t imagine how the savings could be worth it.  It's simply in your pet's best interests to let a veterinary medical professional be the one to do vaccinations.

Cognitive Dysfunction Syndrome

I was on a mission. Leaving my office towards the treatment room, I forgot what it was I needed to do in the treatment room.  I am sure that never happens to you, where you forget in a few minutes why you were leaving one place to go to another.  I call it menopausal amnesia.  I will forget names, what I was going to get while I was at Walmart, etc.  I make notes to myself and forget them at home.  Did you know that your pets can suffer from this 'Cognitive Dysfunction'?

Have you noticed odd behavior in your older pet?  Walking around like they are lost?  Getting trapped behind the couch and cannot figure out how to get out?  Sudden excessive barking or meowing at nothing?  Changes in sleep habits?  Changes in moods, less interactive with you and your family?  These can be signs of Cognitive Dysfunction Syndrome (CDS).

Research has shown that 73% of dogs older than 7 years have exhibited one or more symptoms of an age-related behavioral disorder known as CDS.  Studies have shown similar results for older cats.  CDS can cause disturbing changes in older pets, and its accompanying signs of brain aging and deterioration can happen slowly or seemingly overnight.  The most common signs include:  Disorientation or confusion, decreased social interactions, change in sleep habits, and house soiling.  My old dog, Cookie, would try to come back inside on the wrong side of the door.  He would go outside and wander around, seemingly lost in his own yard, forgetting that he was to go to the bathroom, to come back in and mess on the floor.

CDS in pets is similar to Alzheimer's disease in humans.  As nerve cells age, their membranes are less fluid and less sensitive.  They may also produce more free radicals, which can result in neuronal damage.  In pets, as in humans with Alzheimer's, it is possible to slow the progress of the disease and improve problems, but the illness is incurable.

As dogs and cats age, their levels of activity and awareness can decline, but there are things we can do to help manage your pet's CDS such as a combination of activities, modifications in your pet's environment, diet and medical therapy.  While not curable, these treatments are proven to help support cognitive function.  Seeing improvement in a pet's declining behavior can be dramatic.

Wonder if your pet has CDS?  You can download a Senior Dog Checklist and History Form from Pfizer Animal Health.  Take it with you to your next senior wellness exam with your veterinarian.  This list can help you and your veterinarian develop a CDS plan for your pet.

Spay/Neuter....To be or not to be?

With literally millions of homeless dogs and cats being euthanized in animal shelters each year, this veterinarian and the Animal Care Center fully endorses early-age spay/neuter procedures to help reduce pet overpopulation.  There are many contributing factors that have led to pet overpopulation and the solution will likely be multifaceted.  However, spaying and neutering will always be the cornerstone to reducing the numbers of animals in shelters and euthanized for lack of a home.

Over the years, I have heard many excuses given by clients why they do not have their pet sterilized.  Additionally I have even heard some veterinarians.  Most excuses made by pet owners and others are not well founded and lack strong scientific support.  Excuses include: anesthetic risk and potential adverse effects such as obesity.

Facts:

Anesthetic agents used today are safer than they have ever been.  While there are always risks with anesthesia, these risks have been minimized with better veterinary medicines and anesthetic monitoring.  Compared to performing spays/neuters in older pets,  spaying/neutering at a young age has far less risks of problems.  

Spaying females prior to their first heat cycle (before 6 months of age) decreases incidence of mammy tumors by 80-90%.  Spaying significantly decreases risk of pyometra (uterine infection), a uterine disease commonly seen in older females.

Neutering males decreases roaming and other adverse sexual behaviors.  Less likely to be run over by cars and get into dog fights with other male dogs, in their search for a mate.  A great majority of dog bite wounds I see are a result of two or more males fighting over the same girl.  A good many injuries due to being hit by cars occur within a short distance from home and a result of the dog make a trip to his girlfriend's house.  Neutered dogs have better house training habits.  Neutered dogs have less likelihood of prostate cancer or prostate enlargement as he ages, both conditions commonly seen in older males.

Dogs that get fat after sterilization surgery do so because owners feed them too much.  Sterilized, these pets roam less (expending less energy) and require less caloric intake.  Like us, output has to exceed input or we gain weight.  If your spay/neutered dog is overweight, then they need to eat less and you need to exercise them more.

Other advantages of early sterilization:  Spaying females before sexual maturity avoids the stress and increased risk for complications associated with spaying dogs and cats when they are in heat or pregnant.  It is less traumatic to the pet, allows for quicker recovery (we all know that the younger we are the quicker we seem to bounce back after a surgery) and fewer complications.  Female puppies do not become pregnant, male puppies do not make them.

The number of puppies and kittens born each year in the United States far exceeds the number of available homes.  Dog and cat overpopulation is a serious problem.  As a veterinarian, I encourage getting puppies and kittens spayed/neutered within 3-4 weeks after their last vaccinations, which is approximately 4-5 months of age.  If your pet is past this age, it is still never too late.  Be a solution to the overpopulation problem and not a contributor in addition to adding years to your pet's life and welfare.

Equine Infectious Anemia and Your Horse

Spring is in the air and for horsemen, this marks the beginnings of hitting the trails, rodeos, horse shows, and other events.  For the last 10 years the Animal Care Center has hosted a Spring Equine Health Month, offering discounted vaccines, de-wormers and Coggins Testing.  Our goal is to help the horseman be prepared for the event season by having their Coggins Testing completed and keeping their horses healthy by preventing the common diseases they may come in contact with during the year.

Coggins testing is a blood test that tests for a virus that is responsible for a disease called Equine Infectious Anemia.  The virus is spread through blood sucking external parasites such as biting flies and mosquitos.  It can be spread from horse to horse through these insects.  The reason it is so important in the horse world is because there is no cure for it and no vaccine to protect your horse from the virus.  Risks for contracting this disease increase whenever your horse is hanging out with other horses that may be silent carriers of the virus.  For this reason, horse sales, horse events, organized trail rides, trainers all request that your horse be tested for EIA at least once a year, some may even request it within 6 months of the event.

I won't bore you with the specifics of EIA, I have attached a link about the disease if you have interest in it.   It is a state reportable disease, meaning if your horse test positive for the disease it must be reported to the State Animal Health Department by your veterinarian or the lab that ran the test.  While incidence of EIA is rare in the Midwest, cases do occur, and your should safe guard your horse and others that may come in contact with your horse (and visa versa) by having them tested.

There reason I bring this up now?  It is not uncommon for me to have a horse owner call on a week-end needing their horse Coggins tested because they are leaving for a horse show the next day.  This means you have to present your horse for inspection by your veterinarian and they will need to draw blood for the test.  In most cases, test results may take as long as a week and certainly would not be back in time for you and your horse to attend the event.  Fortunately for my clients, the Animal Care Center is a state approved lab for Coggins testing and we can sometimes have results back within a day and two at the most.  However, why wait until the last minute and find yourself unable to show your horse for the lack of good organizational skills on your part.  Be prepared, organized and keep your horse safe; now is the time for testing.

Dogs in Service

Today I was sitting at my desk browsing through one of my trade magazines, this one happened to be December, 2011 issue of Today's Veterinary Practice.  I am not really behind, although I have several issues of several journals on my desk (buried under a lot of other need to do piles).  In this issue, the editor had an article dedicated to dogs in service.  The author had specifically noted a TSA dog smelling luggage at an airport; the dog using it's acute sense of smell to detect explosives.

Dogs have been in service to man ever since their domestication.  They have alerted man to dangers (sentry), served as pack animals, trackers, patrol dogs, transportation (sled dogs) and a plethora of other duties, including companionship.  Typically we think of service dogs in terms of the blind (guide dogs) and those that assist the handicapped, however we have used the dog's unique skills to perform a variety of special tasks.

A dog's ability to detect scents has been used by man for hundreds of years.  In fact, the dog's sense of smell is it's primary sense, giving him a great deal of information about the world around him.  The dog has more than 220 million olfactory receptors in its nose, each receptor detecting and identifying the minute odor molecules that are given off different objects; thousands of times better than humans.  In terms of parts per million, a human can smell concentrations of about 1 part per million, chemical analyzers can detect concentrations of about 1 part per billion, some dogs can sniff out concentrations of about one tenth of one part per TRILLION! (even if they are masked or mixed with other scents!)  How many of you can smell a bite of steak when mixed among a pile of dirty laundry! (I know your dog can!)

A dog's ability to detect scents have been used with hunting dogs for years. Law enforcement and military are aided by dogs that detect blood, drugs, explosives, mines, arson accelerants.  Disaster management agencies are aided by dogs to find living people and cadavers (9/11 search and rescue dogs).  There are dogs that work in airports, border patrol and customs that sniff out drugs and contraband produce being imported into countries.  Recently, dogs have been used to assist to sniff out cancer in people, detect biochemical changes in diabetics who are becoming hypoglycemic, detect impending seizures!  Amazing!

Other uses, outside of their scent abilities, include use as assistance dogs (physical and mental), therapy/social dogs, and hearing dogs.  These service dogs are utilized for their acute hearing abilities, retrieving abilities, and problem solving abilities.  Legally defined by the Federal government, service dogs are trained to meet the needs of their partner who has a disability (usually physical).  These dogs are allowed to accompany their partner in public places.  These dog's are not considered 'pets', however they are certainly still a companion to their partner.  While by law (Americans with Disabilities Act) therapy/social dogs are not considered 'service dogs', they certainly perform a valuable service.  These dogs provide a social 'bridge' for people with a variety of social disabilities such as autism and post traumatic stress disorder and other mentally debilitating disorders.  These dogs are used for boosting confidence, feelings of independence, and bring comfort, calming and a feeling of well-being.

As a puppy raiser for KSDS (www.ksds.org), I think it is important here to mention the thousands of handlers, trainers and caregivers of these special dogs in service.  Countless numbers of hours in training are required in order for these dogs to hone their unique skills and to achieve exceptional levels of performance.  Every working dog has been given thousands of hours of training and love by a team of dedicated people.  Without their dedication, individuals and communities would be at a loss for the unrivaled service these dogs provide.

These working dogs happily perform their jobs with enthusiasm, intensity and focus.  They give a real meaning to the phrase 'man's best friend'.